Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Elements of Photography Lighting

Elements of Photography Lighting

Photography is about light. As a result, a great photograph emphasizes the important features of a subject through its presentation of light, or its lack of light manifested in shadow. Light defines form, direction, intensity, subtlety, emotion and color, so it's no wonder that understanding the elements of photographic lighting will help improve your photography. The basic elements can take the form of natural light or the light provided by artificial studio or location lights.

Frontlight

    Frontlight provides even illumination of the subject being photographed. As a result, you'll find it relatively easy to set the correct exposure since you don't need to select a metering spot. The subject is evenly illuminated, meaning all parts receive the same amount of light. As such, frontlighting is considered the easiest kind of light with which to work. When using natural frontlight, quality and color are best during the first hour after sunrise and for up to a couple of hours afterward. However, the cost of using such easy lighting is that the subject appears two-dimensional. In order to create the illusion of three dimensions, shadow and highlights must be combined effectively. Frontlighting is rarely done using artificial lights.

Sidelight

    Sidelighting creates shadow and highlights within a photograph. Used correctly, so that light comes from one or both sides of the subject, sidelighting gives photographs a three-dimensional perspective that helps convey a sense of depth, contrast and substance. However, it is a difficult lighting element to master. It requires combining light with shadow in such a way that the photograph mimics the three-dimensional world. Sidelighting is difficult to use correctly but most photographers agree that sidelighting results in a stronger reaction from viewers. Using artificial lights rather than natural light for sidelight makes arranging the shadows a bit easier if a long composition--placing the subject and then repositioning several times--is required.

Backlight

    Backlighting adds a different element to sidelighting: Silhouetting. Backlighting--positioning the subject so that the light falls onto the back of the subject, or directly opposite the photographer--always provides several options regarding exposure. You may meter the reflected light from the subject, meter the light on the back side of the subject or meter the unreflected light on the front side of the subject. In any of these cases the results can vary from dramatic to unremarkable, so some experimentation is needed to get the best results. Using natural light means being in the right place at the right time. Artificial lights may be an acceptable substitute for a fleeting moment of natural light.


Elements of Photography Lighting

Photography is about light. As a result, a great photograph emphasizes the important features of a subject through its presentation of light, or its lack of light manifested in shadow. Light defines form, direction, intensity, subtlety, emotion and color, so it's no wonder that understanding the elements of photographic lighting will help improve your photography. The basic elements can take the form of natural light or the light provided by artificial studio or location lights.

Frontlight

    Frontlight provides even illumination of the subject being photographed. As a result, you'll find it relatively easy to set the correct exposure since you don't need to select a metering spot. The subject is evenly illuminated, meaning all parts receive the same amount of light. As such, frontlighting is considered the easiest kind of light with which to work. When using natural frontlight, quality and color are best during the first hour after sunrise and for up to a couple of hours afterward. However, the cost of using such easy lighting is that the subject appears two-dimensional. In order to create the illusion of three dimensions, shadow and highlights must be combined effectively. Frontlighting is rarely done using artificial lights.

Sidelight

    Sidelighting creates shadow and highlights within a photograph. Used correctly, so that light comes from one or both sides of the subject, sidelighting gives photographs a three-dimensional perspective that helps convey a sense of depth, contrast and substance. However, it is a difficult lighting element to master. It requires combining light with shadow in such a way that the photograph mimics the three-dimensional world. Sidelighting is difficult to use correctly but most photographers agree that sidelighting results in a stronger reaction from viewers. Using artificial lights rather than natural light for sidelight makes arranging the shadows a bit easier if a long composition--placing the subject and then repositioning several times--is required.

Backlight

    Backlighting adds a different element to sidelighting: Silhouetting. Backlighting--positioning the subject so that the light falls onto the back of the subject, or directly opposite the photographer--always provides several options regarding exposure. You may meter the reflected light from the subject, meter the light on the back side of the subject or meter the unreflected light on the front side of the subject. In any of these cases the results can vary from dramatic to unremarkable, so some experimentation is needed to get the best results. Using natural light means being in the right place at the right time. Artificial lights may be an acceptable substitute for a fleeting moment of natural light.



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Monday, December 23, 2013

How to Be organized for a photoshoot

When planning a photo shoot with other team members there needs to be clarity to all persons involved. Not just to make the shoot run smoothly but out of respect for each professionals time.

Instructions

    1

    Choose a theme. Start looking at images you like or planning your creative ideas before you do any other planning, this will influence the team you choose & location.

    2

    Choose a team. This includes a photographer, model, make-up artist, stylist, & a hairstylist. Make sure that once you have decided to work with these people that you begin to exchange phone and email contact info.

    3

    Choose a location. Make sure that you plan a location that is going to work with the images you want. For example a studio for studio photos and or a beach for outdoor images.

    4

    Choose a date & time. Depending on the location and your teams availability, choose a date and time that works best. You may have to switch out some team members. It is nice to keep a list of "talent you would like to work with". Inevitably someone on your team will not be available on the date you choose. So if you have people you can switch out this will make for an easy transition when planning comes closer to the date.

    5

    Notify everyone in advance of all details. It is best to notify the team at least a week out of the time and location. Definitely they need to know the theme. In some cases artists are in need of this information further out so that they can prepare their expertise.


When planning a photo shoot with other team members there needs to be clarity to all persons involved. Not just to make the shoot run smoothly but out of respect for each professionals time.

Instructions

    1

    Choose a theme. Start looking at images you like or planning your creative ideas before you do any other planning, this will influence the team you choose & location.

    2

    Choose a team. This includes a photographer, model, make-up artist, stylist, & a hairstylist. Make sure that once you have decided to work with these people that you begin to exchange phone and email contact info.

    3

    Choose a location.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Make sure that you plan a location that is going to work with the images you want. For example a studio for studio photos and or a beach for outdoor images.

    4

    Choose a date & time. Depending on the location and your teams availability, choose a date and time that works best. You may have to switch out some team members. It is nice to keep a list of "talent you would like to work with". Inevitably someone on your team will not be available on the date you choose. So if you have people you can switch out this will make for an easy transition when planning comes closer to the date.

    5

    Notify everyone in advance of all details. It is best to notify the team at least a week out of the time and location. Definitely they need to know the theme. In some cases artists are in need of this information further out so that they can prepare their expertise.



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Sunday, December 22, 2013

The Effects of Different Lens Filters on Digital SLR

The Effects of Different Lens Filters on Digital SLR

Photographers have long used lens filters on their cameras to improve the quality of their shots. Usually attached to the front of a camera over the lens, filters are glass fittings that can be used to adjust the color that reflects off the light source, so that you get a more balanced color level, or exaggerate the colors for artistic purposes. They can also be used to control the amount of light that the lens is exposed to when you need to make a longer exposure.

UV/Skylight Filters

    When you're taking outdoor pictures on a bright, sunny day, a UV filter can reduce the haze that might appear in your photo, as well as the bluish tint that you could see. This can help increase the quality of the photo by increasing the color saturation. Due to being colorless and not reducing the amount of light that enters the lens, UV filters can be kept on your camera all the time to help protect the lens from being scratched. (They only cost about 10 percent of what a new lens would cost you.)

Polarizing Filters

    Polarizing filters work by selectively filtering certain light waves. They can help reduce reflections, such as those from waves or glass, help remove haze from the image and also increase color saturation. Polarizing filters block a lot of light, so they're definitely not all-purpose lenses--they're much better suited to bright, sunny days.

Natural Density filters

    Sometimes, you want a shot, such as an action shot that will show movement with a blurry image, that requires you to have a wide aperture setting (the f-stop settings that determine how much light is let in through the lens), and a slow shutter speed (the amount of time that the film or sensors is exposed to the image). A natural density filter would be ideal in this situation. Natural density filters are designed with the intent of stopping light from entering the lens. This prevents the image from being overexposed and washed out.

Grey Graduated filters

    Grey graduated filters are clear at one end, and slowly become tinted as they approach the other side. These filters are used to reduce the intensity of brightly lit areas of the shot, giving more light balance in the shot, while retaining detail in both the brighter and darker areas.


The Effects of Different Lens Filters on Digital SLR

Photographers have long used lens filters on their cameras to improve the quality of their shots. Usually attached to the front of a camera over the lens, filters are glass fittings that can be used to adjust the color that reflects off the light source, so that you get a more balanced color level, or exaggerate the colors for artistic purposes. They can also be used to control the amount of light that the lens is exposed to when you need to make a longer exposure.

UV/Skylight Filters

    When you're taking outdoor pictures on a bright, sunny day, a UV filter can reduce the haze that might appear in your photo, as well as the bluish tint that you could see. This can help increase the quality of the photo by increasing the color saturation. Due to being colorless and not reducing the amount of light that enters the lens, UV filters can be kept on your camera all the time to help protect the lens from being scratched. (They only cost about 10 percent of what a new lens would cost you.)

Polarizing Filters

    Polarizing filters work by selectively filtering certain light waves. They can help reduce reflections, such as those from waves or glass, help remove haze from the image and also increase color saturation. Polarizing filters block a lot of light, so they're definitely not all-purpose lenses--they're much better suited to bright, sunny days.

Natural Density filters

    Sometimes, you want a shot, such as an action shot that will show movement with a blurry image, that requires you to have a wide aperture setting (the f-stop settings that determine how much light is let in through the lens), and a slow shutter speed (the amount of time that the film or sensors is exposed to the image).

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . A natural density filter would be ideal in this situation. Natural density filters are designed with the intent of stopping light from entering the lens. This prevents the image from being overexposed and washed out.

Grey Graduated filters

    Grey graduated filters are clear at one end, and slowly become tinted as they approach the other side. These filters are used to reduce the intensity of brightly lit areas of the shot, giving more light balance in the shot, while retaining detail in both the brighter and darker areas.



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Friday, December 20, 2013

How to Make the Background Black in Photography

In studio photography, a black background for your subject usually looks very classy. Black makes the subject stand out and minimizes distractions. However, nothing looks more tacky and amateur than a black backdrop that doesn't appear fully black. Proper lighting and camera settings are the key to making sure you get a solid black behind your subject rather than a wrinkled-looking gray.

Instructions

    1

    Set your camera at F11 and 1/100 shutter speed. Set the ISO to 100. If your camera has white balance presets, set the white balance to bright sunlight. Otherwise, keep the white balance settings on auto. These are general settings to use as a starting point for strobe photography, but depending on your camera and the type of lights you are using, it may require slight adjustments.

    2

    Sync your camera to the strobes with either a wireless transmitter or a sync cord. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to do this, as it will vary from brand to brand.

    3

    Set up your backdrop and place your subject at least two feet away from the backdrop.

    4

    Set up one strobe behind the subject so that the light will shine behind them at about a 45-degree angle.

    5

    Place the other strobe directly in front of the subject.

    6

    Take a picture. The backdrop should appear black because your lights are positioned to illuminate the subject rather than the background. If the background is not black, you may not have your back light angled correctly. Change the the angle until you achieve the results you desire.


In studio photography, a black background for your subject usually looks very classy. Black makes the subject stand out and minimizes distractions. However, nothing looks more tacky and amateur than a black backdrop that doesn't appear fully black. Proper lighting and camera settings are the key to making sure you get a solid black behind your subject rather than a wrinkled-looking gray.

Instructions

    1

    Set your camera at F11 and 1/100 shutter speed.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Set the ISO to 100. If your camera has white balance presets, set the white balance to bright sunlight. Otherwise, keep the white balance settings on auto. These are general settings to use as a starting point for strobe photography, but depending on your camera and the type of lights you are using, it may require slight adjustments.

    2

    Sync your camera to the strobes with either a wireless transmitter or a sync cord. Follow the manufacturer's instructions on how to do this, as it will vary from brand to brand.

    3

    Set up your backdrop and place your subject at least two feet away from the backdrop.

    4

    Set up one strobe behind the subject so that the light will shine behind them at about a 45-degree angle.

    5

    Place the other strobe directly in front of the subject.

    6

    Take a picture. The backdrop should appear black because your lights are positioned to illuminate the subject rather than the background. If the background is not black, you may not have your back light angled correctly. Change the the angle until you achieve the results you desire.



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Wednesday, December 18, 2013

How to Talk About Light

How to Talk About Light

In order to create an image you need thee things: light, an observer and an object. One of the problems that novice photographers experience is they do not understand the language and terminology of photography. What does it mean to "bounce" the light? What is a key light? What is a strobe light? It is hard for novice photographers to get help from more experienced photographers if they don't speak a common language. I told a new photographer once that her picture would have been better if she used a hair light. She of course asked, "what is a hair light?" In this article I will explain some photography terms as they relate to light. It is not meant to be a complete glossary, but rather to cover the key terminologies. In Resources below you will find some websites that offer more complete glossaries.

Instructions

    1
    Electromagnetic Spectrum

    First, let's discuss the nature of light. VISIBLE LIGHT is part of the ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRUM. Light, as we can see it, is a very small part of the spectrum from about 400nm to 700nm. Other parts of this spectrum include X-rays, gamma waves and radio waves. While we cannot see X-Rays or infrared rays, camera films can be used to photograph these waves. Visible light can be NATURAL LIGHT from the sun or ARTIFICIAL LIGHT from INCANDESCENT or FLUORESCENT light sources. Color properties of light are expressed in KELVIN notation. Natural light is about 5000K to 6500K depending on the angle of the sun and location on the earth. On a shady day, the sun may only be 4800K. Modern Digital SLR cameras have automatic WHITE BALANCE controls that automatically adjust for color temperature. Incandescent light has a color temperature of between 2800K and 3200K providing a yellowish green light. Regular fluorescent lights have a color temperature of about 2900K, however, you can buy color-corrected fluorescent lights that have a color temperature equal to daylight. These are used in print evaluation rooms, and even in some studios.

    2
    SRGB Gamut

    A color GAMUT is a DEVICE DEPENDENT color space that provides a visual representation of the color characteristics of that particular device. The "shoe sole" large area represents VISIBLE LIGHT and the plotted area within shows the COLOR GAMUT of the device, which is in this case an SRGB COLOR MODEL. Of course you can't have COLOR without having an OBSERVER. If a tree falls in an unpopulated area, does it make a sound? No, it makes a WAVE, but you need a listener to have sound and you need an OBSERVER to have color. Since we all see color differently, the CIE created a STANDARD OBSERVER, so that we have a common language when we discuss color. This is built in to all color models, color spaces, spectrophotometers and colorimeters.

    3
    Four Point Lighting

    Now that we know a little about light, lets talk about LIGHTING. This is a standard studio portrait lighting setup. The KEY light is also sometimes called the MAIN light and it will create the most important shadows in the picture. The FILL light is used to fill the shadow; it may be the same strength as the KEY light and less strong to provide a deeper main shadow. The BACKLIGHT is sometimes called the HIGH LIGHT or HAIR LIGHT, and in a portrait setting will be used to provide a highlight in the lighting plan. The BACKGROUND light is used to light the background to give the image a more three-dimensional look.

    4
    Studio Light

    There is a huge variety in studio lighting from the LIGHT BANKS used by movie studios and rock concerts to simpler setups for professional photography. Photographers' CONTINUOUS LIGHTING options come in cooler fluorescent light banks color corrected to 6000K. There are also less expensive and hotter INCANDESCENT lighting that has to be color corrected with light filters or by adjusting the film or camera white point.

    5
    Strobe Light

    The more popular type of studio lighting is FLASH or STROBE lights that are only on during the exposure, which is usually 1/80th of a second. This creates a unique photographic problem. How can the photographer set up his studio lighting when it is dark? How can you evaluate the shadows and highlight created on your subject? Many professional strobe lights have a builtin MODELING light, which is a low wattage incandescent light that you can aim on the subject to set your lighting angles. The modeling light may stay on during exposure. This will not create a color balance problem, since the intensity is very low compared to the STROBE lights. You can also use regular incandescent studio light in combination with strobe lighting if your lights do not have modeling lights.

    6
    Photo Umbrella

    In studio light setups, strobe lights may have a main light and SLAVE units that are SYNCED to go off when the main light is triggered. Photographers use UMBRELLAS and BOUNCE the light into the umbrella with the reflection for the umbrella used to light the subject. This creates a softer light. You may also use DIFFUSERS that go directly over the light to soften the light further.


How to Talk About Light

In order to create an image you need thee things: light, an observer and an object. One of the problems that novice photographers experience is they do not understand the language and terminology of photography. What does it mean to "bounce" the light? What is a key light? What is a strobe light? It is hard for novice photographers to get help from more experienced photographers if they don't speak a common language. I told a new photographer once that her picture would have been better if she used a hair light. She of course asked, "what is a hair light?" In this article I will explain some photography terms as they relate to light. It is not meant to be a complete glossary, but rather to cover the key terminologies. In Resources below you will find some websites that offer more complete glossaries.

Instructions

    1
    Electromagnetic Spectrum

    First, let's discuss the nature of light. VISIBLE LIGHT is part of the ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRUM. Light, as we can see it, is a very small part of the spectrum from about 400nm to 700nm. Other parts of this spectrum include X-rays, gamma waves and radio waves. While we cannot see X-Rays or infrared rays, camera films can be used to photograph these waves. Visible light can be NATURAL LIGHT from the sun or ARTIFICIAL LIGHT from INCANDESCENT or FLUORESCENT light sources. Color properties of light are expressed in KELVIN notation. Natural light is about 5000K to 6500K depending on the angle of the sun and location on the earth. On a shady day, the sun may only be 4800K. Modern Digital SLR cameras have automatic WHITE BALANCE controls that automatically adjust for color temperature. Incandescent light has a color temperature of between 2800K and 3200K providing a yellowish green light.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Regular fluorescent lights have a color temperature of about 2900K, however, you can buy color-corrected fluorescent lights that have a color temperature equal to daylight. These are used in print evaluation rooms, and even in some studios.

    2
    SRGB Gamut

    A color GAMUT is a DEVICE DEPENDENT color space that provides a visual representation of the color characteristics of that particular device. The "shoe sole" large area represents VISIBLE LIGHT and the plotted area within shows the COLOR GAMUT of the device, which is in this case an SRGB COLOR MODEL. Of course you can't have COLOR without having an OBSERVER. If a tree falls in an unpopulated area, does it make a sound? No, it makes a WAVE, but you need a listener to have sound and you need an OBSERVER to have color. Since we all see color differently, the CIE created a STANDARD OBSERVER, so that we have a common language when we discuss color. This is built in to all color models, color spaces, spectrophotometers and colorimeters.

    3
    Four Point Lighting

    Now that we know a little about light, lets talk about LIGHTING. This is a standard studio portrait lighting setup. The KEY light is also sometimes called the MAIN light and it will create the most important shadows in the picture. The FILL light is used to fill the shadow; it may be the same strength as the KEY light and less strong to provide a deeper main shadow. The BACKLIGHT is sometimes called the HIGH LIGHT or HAIR LIGHT, and in a portrait setting will be used to provide a highlight in the lighting plan. The BACKGROUND light is used to light the background to give the image a more three-dimensional look.

    4
    Studio Light

    There is a huge variety in studio lighting from the LIGHT BANKS used by movie studios and rock concerts to simpler setups for professional photography. Photographers' CONTINUOUS LIGHTING options come in cooler fluorescent light banks color corrected to 6000K. There are also less expensive and hotter INCANDESCENT lighting that has to be color corrected with light filters or by adjusting the film or camera white point.

    5
    Strobe Light

    The more popular type of studio lighting is FLASH or STROBE lights that are only on during the exposure, which is usually 1/80th of a second. This creates a unique photographic problem. How can the photographer set up his studio lighting when it is dark? How can you evaluate the shadows and highlight created on your subject? Many professional strobe lights have a builtin MODELING light, which is a low wattage incandescent light that you can aim on the subject to set your lighting angles. The modeling light may stay on during exposure. This will not create a color balance problem, since the intensity is very low compared to the STROBE lights. You can also use regular incandescent studio light in combination with strobe lighting if your lights do not have modeling lights.

    6
    Photo Umbrella

    In studio light setups, strobe lights may have a main light and SLAVE units that are SYNCED to go off when the main light is triggered. Photographers use UMBRELLAS and BOUNCE the light into the umbrella with the reflection for the umbrella used to light the subject. This creates a softer light. You may also use DIFFUSERS that go directly over the light to soften the light further.



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