Sunday, April 16, 2017

How to Develop My Own Film for the First Time

How to Develop My Own Film for the First Time

Most photographers at some point in time will process their own film at home. Processing film is all about time and temperature. If you have the right film, in the right chemical at the right temperature then it will be developed correctly. Processing black and white film at home is the easiest and usually the first place to start. Color film and slide film have a few more steps in the process and the chemicals used are more toxic, requiring additional safety measures.

Instructions

How to Process Film for the First Time

    1

    Remove the exposed film from its' canister. This has to done in complete darkness. Any exposure to light will "fog" the film and either render it unusable or at best ruin only a portion of the film. You can either use a changing bag or an interior room in your house that is 100 percent dark when the door is closed and light is off. Use a bottle opener of small pliers to remove the top of the film canister then remove the film, handling it only by the edges.

    2

    Load film onto the reels. Once you have the film out of canister you have to load it on the reels. The film still cannot be exposed to light so this has to be done in complete darkness. This step is tricky and takes practice, if the film is not loaded correctly onto the reels and comes into contact with itself, the point where it is in contact will be ruined. Practice with test roll in normal light to get a sense of how the film loads onto these reels.

    3

    Place the reels into the processing tank and replace lid. Once both reels are inside the tank, and the lid is on, it is safe to turn the lights on or remove the tank from the changing bag.

    4

    Pour 20 ounces of the premixed photo developer in the tank using the light proof filling hole in the top of the lid. The developer should be mixed with water at 72 degrees. After all the developer is in the tank, agitate the film by rotating the tank a quarter turn as you hold it. Do this for 30 seconds, tap the tank on the table, and let the tank sit for 25 seconds. Agitate for five seconds, let sit for 25 seconds and repeat this process for the entire seven-minute developing time. At the end of seven minutes pour out and discard the developer.

    5

    Pour 20 ounces of mixed stop bath in the tank, agitate for 30 seconds, pour out and discard.

    6

    Pour 20 ounces of fixer solution you have pre-mixed into the tank and agitate for 15 seconds, and let sit for 45 seconds. The fixing process takes between four to eight minutes depending how fresh the solution is. Fixer can be reused; if you are using a fresh batch then allow the film to fix for four minutes, after which pour out and discard.

    7

    Wash the film with fresh water. Now the film can be safely viewed in normal light. Remove the top and rinse the film in the tank by running water through the tank for five minutes. After rinsing add two drops of "photo flo" chemical, turning the reels to ensure equal coverage.

    8

    Take the reels out of the tank, remove the film from the reels and using film clips hang the film for a minimum of two hours to dry.

    9

    Cut the film into strips of five or six frames and insert into negative sleeves that protect the negatives when being viewed and stored.


How to Develop My Own Film for the First Time

Most photographers at some point in time will process their own film at home. Processing film is all about time and temperature. If you have the right film, in the right chemical at the right temperature then it will be developed correctly. Processing black and white film at home is the easiest and usually the first place to start. Color film and slide film have a few more steps in the process and the chemicals used are more toxic, requiring additional safety measures.

Instructions

How to Process Film for the First Time

    1

    Remove the exposed film from its' canister. This has to done in complete darkness. Any exposure to light will "fog" the film and either render it unusable or at best ruin only a portion of the film. You can either use a changing bag or an interior room in your house that is 100 percent dark when the door is closed and light is off. Use a bottle opener of small pliers to remove the top of the film canister then remove the film, handling it only by the edges.

    2

    Load film onto the reels. Once you have the film out of canister you have to load it on the reels. The film still cannot be exposed to light so this has to be done in complete darkness. This step is tricky and takes practice, if the film is not loaded correctly onto the reels and comes into contact with itself, the point where it is in contact will be ruined. Practice with test roll in normal light to get a sense of how the film loads onto these reels.

    3

    Place the reels into the processing tank and replace lid. Once both reels are inside the tank, and the lid is on, it is safe to turn the lights on or remove the tank from the changing bag.

    4

    Pour 20 ounces of the premixed photo developer in the tank using the light proof filling hole in the top of the lid. The developer should be mixed with water at 72 degrees. After all the developer is in the tank, agitate the film by rotating the tank a quarter turn as you hold it. Do this for 30 seconds, tap the tank on the table, and let the tank sit for 25 seconds. Agitate for five seconds, let sit for 25 seconds and repeat this process for the entire seven-minute developing time. At the end of seven minutes pour out and discard the developer.

    5

    Pour 20 ounces of mixed stop bath in the tank, agitate for 30 seconds, pour out and discard.

    6

    Pour 20 ounces of fixer solution you have pre-mixed into the tank and agitate for 15 seconds, and let sit for 45 seconds. The fixing process takes between four to eight minutes depending how fresh the solution is. Fixer can be reused; if you are using a fresh batch then allow the film to fix for four minutes, after which pour out and discard.

    7

    Wash the film with fresh water. Now the film can be safely viewed in normal light. Remove the top and rinse the film in the tank by running water through the tank for five minutes. After rinsing add two drops of "photo flo" chemical, turning the reels to ensure equal coverage.

    8

    Take the reels out of the tank, remove the film from the reels and using film clips hang the film for a minimum of two hours to dry.

    9

    Cut the film into strips of five or six frames and insert into negative sleeves that protect the negatives when being viewed and stored.



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Friday, April 14, 2017

How to Remove Fingerprints on a Photo

How to Remove Fingerprints on a Photo

Glossy photo prints make photography and picture taking worthwhile, but sometimes it is forgotten how to handle photos without getting fingerprints all over them. Whether you're dealing with your own or someone else's moist fingers, you'll want to get rid of the fingerprints in order to preserve the quality of the photo. Fortunately, there's a surefire way to do this and it doesn't require photography expertise.

Instructions

    1

    Lay the photo flat on the palm of the hand that you do not write with. If the photo is too unbalanced on your palm, place on a flat, smooth surface.

    2

    Take a look at the fingerprints to assess the damage. If there is any residue on the photo as a result of greasy or sticky fingers, grab a moist towelette that is made for cleaning glass lenses or computer screens. If there are only fingerprints and no residue, get a 100% cotton cloth to use for cleaning.

    3

    Gently wipe fingerprints away using the towelette first, if it is needed. Then, wipe the picture using the cotton cloth.


How to Remove Fingerprints on a Photo

Glossy photo prints make photography and picture taking worthwhile, but sometimes it is forgotten how to handle photos without getting fingerprints all over them. Whether you're dealing with your own or someone else's moist fingers, you'll want to get rid of the fingerprints in order to preserve the quality of the photo. Fortunately, there's a surefire way to do this and it doesn't require photography expertise.

Instructions

    1

    Lay the photo flat on the palm of the hand that you do not write with. If the photo is too unbalanced on your palm, place on a flat, smooth surface.

    2

    Take a look at the fingerprints to assess the damage. If there is any residue on the photo as a result of greasy or sticky fingers, grab a moist towelette that is made for cleaning glass lenses or computer screens. If there are only fingerprints and no residue, get a 100% cotton cloth to use for cleaning.

    3

    Gently wipe fingerprints away using the towelette first, if it is needed. Then, wipe the picture using the cotton cloth.



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Thursday, April 13, 2017

How to Become An Online Photographer

How to Become An Online Photographer

You can turn a photography hobby into an extra source of income by becoming an online photographer. Making money with your photographs using online platforms may start slow and will take hard work and dedication to move from a hobby to part-time income. If you have passion for photography, making additional money online can be a bonus for something you love doing.

Instructions

    1

    Set up an online portfolio that features your best photos. If you can, make a website using your own domain name for your portfolio, then link other online profiles that can help build your credibility and show more of your sample works. You can also upload your photos in Photobucket or Flicker for easy access on your portfolio.

    2

    Sort your photos according to theme or location, and also according to what kind of rights you want for these photos. Selling your photo's copyright means you are giving up your full rights to it for a particular client. This generally means you will get paid more compared to just sharing the limited rights to a photo, which allows you to retain ownership of it. Keeping your copyright to a photo means you can still resell it to other clients. A company that buys full rights to a photo can do anything with it from altering, reusing or even reselling it without your consent. Selling your copyright can easily exceed $1,000 for a top photo, while a photo with non-exclusive, limited-use rights can range from $10 to $1,000. Most photos will be on the low range because the field is so competitive and because tock photos are so common.

    3

    Find stock photo websites that are open to online photographers, then list your options on where you want to apply. Read the agreement on each website to ensure that you understand its regulations and if you agree with the stipulations on how you can monetize your photos. Expect that they will get commissions on any of your photos sold using their platform. This can usually range from 10 to 50 percent of the gross earnings of a sold photo.

    4

    Sell your photos using your own website. Although this would mean you won't share earnings with a third-party site, your own website requires much more time investment and technical maintenance from you. You must spend money and time promoting your site to photo buyers who frankly prefer aggregated sites for convenience.

    5

    Upload each photo that you want to sell. Decide whether you want to sell exclusive rights for each photo or you only want to share rights for different clients.


How to Become An Online Photographer

You can turn a photography hobby into an extra source of income by becoming an online photographer. Making money with your photographs using online platforms may start slow and will take hard work and dedication to move from a hobby to part-time income. If you have passion for photography, making additional money online can be a bonus for something you love doing.

Instructions

    1

    Set up an online portfolio that features your best photos. If you can, make a website using your own domain name for your portfolio, then link other online profiles that can help build your credibility and show more of your sample works. You can also upload your photos in Photobucket or Flicker for easy access on your portfolio.

    2

    Sort your photos according to theme or location, and also according to what kind of rights you want for these photos. Selling your photo's copyright means you are giving up your full rights to it for a particular client. This generally means you will get paid more compared to just sharing the limited rights to a photo, which allows you to retain ownership of it. Keeping your copyright to a photo means you can still resell it to other clients. A company that buys full rights to a photo can do anything with it from altering, reusing or even reselling it without your consent. Selling your copyright can easily exceed $1,000 for a top photo, while a photo with non-exclusive, limited-use rights can range from $10 to $1,000. Most photos will be on the low range because the field is so competitive and because tock photos are so common.

    3

    Find stock photo websites that are open to online photographers, then list your options on where you want to apply. Read the agreement on each website to ensure that you understand its regulations and if you agree with the stipulations on how you can monetize your photos. Expect that they will get commissions on any of your photos sold using their platform. This can usually range from 10 to 50 percent of the gross earnings of a sold photo.

    4

    Sell your photos using your own website.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Although this would mean you won't share earnings with a third-party site, your own website requires much more time investment and technical maintenance from you. You must spend money and time promoting your site to photo buyers who frankly prefer aggregated sites for convenience.

    5

    Upload each photo that you want to sell. Decide whether you want to sell exclusive rights for each photo or you only want to share rights for different clients.



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Monday, April 10, 2017

After Effects of Camera Motion Blur

After Effects of Camera Motion Blur

Camera motion blur occurs when a camera's shutter speed setting is too slow to compensate for the motion of the person holding the camera. While the severity of the blur depends on the lens, it becomes a general concern around a setting of 1/30 of a second or slower. In mild forms it can create a displeasing image softness, but pushed to an extreme, creative visual effects are possible.

Light Blurs

    When photographing a night time scene that involves one or more points of light, the motion of the camera causes the light to be "stretched" into lines as it is captured across the surface of the film. The longer the shutter speed, the longer and possibly fuzzier the lines become. An abstract image of lines and shapes can be achieved by using different colors and sources of light, such as a candle, a cell phone, a nighttime city scene or a street lamp.

Yellow Haze

    An automatic camera that is used indoors and whose flash has failed to fire will often produce a blurred image with a yellow cast. This happens for two reasons. The first is that the camera sensed the low amount of light and therefore slowed down the shutter speed to gather as much light as possible, creating the blur. Second, common film is balanced for a daylight color temperature. When the daylight-balanced flash does not fire, the yellow cast of the typical indoor light bulb colors the image. Most people tend to throw away these sorts of images as mistakes, but the lighting, mood and shapes sometimes created make for unique images.

Panning

    Panning is achieved when a long shutter speed is used while photographing a moving object. The goal is to keep the subject in the same relative position on the film plane by moving the camera at the same speed of the subject, which will keep it in adequate focus. Meanwhile the variety of static objects in the background will blur into soft lines traveling in the direction of your motion. Panning takes a bit of trial and error, but it can produce dynamic effects with otherwise unexciting subject matter that happens to be in motion. The distinction between sharp subject and blurry background can be enhanced by rotating the camera angle as it sits on a tripod.

Zoom Lens Panning

    This type of panning involves the motion of a zoom lens in addition to the motion of the entire camera. The idea of keeping a subject in the same relative location on the film plane is the same. For the duration of the long shutter speed, the zoom lens should be turned so as to make the subject smaller while moving towards the subject at the same time. The opposite motions can be performed as well, both resulting in the subject remaining roughly the same size. The motion blur of the background, in this case, takes the shape of lines radiating out of the subject.


After Effects of Camera Motion Blur

Camera motion blur occurs when a camera's shutter speed setting is too slow to compensate for the motion of the person holding the camera. While the severity of the blur depends on the lens, it becomes a general concern around a setting of 1/30 of a second or slower. In mild forms it can create a displeasing image softness, but pushed to an extreme, creative visual effects are possible.

Light Blurs

    When photographing a night time scene that involves one or more points of light, the motion of the camera causes the light to be "stretched" into lines as it is captured across the surface of the film. The longer the shutter speed, the longer and possibly fuzzier the lines become. An abstract image of lines and shapes can be achieved by using different colors and sources of light, such as a candle, a cell phone, a nighttime city scene or a street lamp.

Yellow Haze

    An automatic camera that is used indoors and whose flash has failed to fire will often produce a blurred image with a yellow cast. This happens for two reasons. The first is that the camera sensed the low amount of light and therefore slowed down the shutter speed to gather as much light as possible, creating the blur. Second, common film is balanced for a daylight color temperature. When the daylight-balanced flash does not fire, the yellow cast of the typical indoor light bulb colors the image. Most people tend to throw away these sorts of images as mistakes, but the lighting, mood and shapes sometimes created make for unique images.

Panning

    Panning is achieved when a long shutter speed is used while photographing a moving object. The goal is to keep the subject in the same relative position on the film plane by moving the camera at the same speed of the subject, which will keep it in adequate focus. Meanwhile the variety of static objects in the background will blur into soft lines traveling in the direction of your motion. Panning takes a bit of trial and error, but it can produce dynamic effects with otherwise unexciting subject matter that happens to be in motion. The distinction between sharp subject and blurry background can be enhanced by rotating the camera angle as it sits on a tripod.

Zoom Lens Panning

    This type of panning involves the motion of a zoom lens in addition to the motion of the entire camera. The idea of keeping a subject in the same relative location on the film plane is the same. For the duration of the long shutter speed, the zoom lens should be turned so as to make the subject smaller while moving towards the subject at the same time. The opposite motions can be performed as well, both resulting in the subject remaining roughly the same size. The motion blur of the background, in this case, takes the shape of lines radiating out of the subject.



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