Photography Shared

Wednesday, March 5, 2014

Tutorial on How to Fix Overexposed Photos

4:55 AM No comments

Photographs can become under or overexposed, due to poor lighting conditions or weak camera flashes. Most consumers toss photos out if images aren't clear enough to see. These rejected images can be corrected with the use of design or photo editing software. Once corrected, these images can be reprinted and displayed for everyone to see.

Instructions

Scan the photo into a design program. Place the picture onto the scanner and scan it at the highest resolution possible. If the picture is a digital file, import the image into the program. Select "File," then "Import." Choose the photo file from the new window that appears and select "Import" or "OK."

Fix overexposed pictures by adjusting the brightness and contrast. This tool can be located in the toolbar menu under "Image," then "Adjustments" or under "Exposure." Move the sliders on both the contrast and brightness to fix the overexposed photo.

Adjust the exposure levels of the photo using "Levels." Select "Image," then "Adjustments" and click on "Levels." Move the sliders in the window to adjust the contrast and improve brightness. Exposure may also be automatically adjusted by selecting "Auto Levels."

Correct overexposed areas of the photo with a selective color tool. In the toolbar menu at the top of the screen, choose "Image," then "Adjustments" and click on "Selective Color." A new window will appear. Select whites, blacks or neutrals in the "Color" drop down menu. Move the slider in the "Blacks" section of the screen to adjust the exposure.

Select highly overexposed areas of a photo to correct. Use selection tools such as the "Marquee" or "Lasso Tool" found in the side toolbox, in the work window. Upon choosing the selection tool, darken bright areas using a "Burn" tool and lighten dark areas with a "Dodge" tool. Click on the selected areas to lighten or darken, then deselect them under "Select," then "Deselect."

Instructions

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How to Use an Outdoor Fill Flash

3:58 PM No comments

An outdoor fill flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photographs. Unfortunately the outdoor fill flash is rarely used by photographers even though it is available on virtually every camera. Follow these tips and you will be using an outdoor fill flash to take better photos.

Instructions

Understand what an outdoor fill flash is. Any flash on any camera can act as an outdoor fill flash. It is used in situations where there is so much ambient light that the camera does not automatically flash. You must tell the camera to flash despite the presence of enough light overall. The idea is to "fill" darker areas with the "flash."

Adjust your camera to be an outdoor fill flash. Look for a button marked by a lighting bolt with an arrow at the bottom end. This sets your flash mode. On cameras with default automatic settings you must first change the camera to manual mode to adjust the flash. Once you are in manual press the flash setting button until it is the lighting bolt by itself. Be sure it doesn't have an "A" near it or circle and line through it. The lightning bolt by itself tells the camera to flash regardless of lighting conditions.

Use the outdoor fill flash on bright sunny days when shadows obscure your subject. This is common if the sun is high in the sky and there are shadows around the eyes from the shade of the forehead. This is called "racooning." Also use the outdoor fill flash if your subject is wearing a hat or the sun is to the side. The outdoor fill flash will brighten faces that would otherwise be dark in photos.

Utilize the outdoor fill flash when the light source is behind the subject. Back lit photos can be spectacular and artistic. However, any object in the foreground will be a dark shadow. To compensate for this use the outdoor fill flash. If you are taking a picture of a person in front of a sunset then both will be well lit.

Consider the outdoor fill flash in mixed lighting conditions. When you are taking photos on the run and you don't have time to adjust to changing light conditions use the outdoor fill flash. You will always be sure that your subjects have enough light. When there are several competing light sources casting strange multiple shadows, the outdoor fill flash compensates so you don't have to think about it.

Instructions

Utilize the outdoor fill flash when the light source is behind the subject. Back lit photos can be spectacular and artistic. However, any object in the foreground will be a dark shadow.

Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

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History of Tintype Portraits

4:13 AM 2 comments

Tintype photography falls between the invention of the daguerreotype in 1833 and the introduction of rolled film in 1888. In the mid-19th century, the tintype provided an inexpensive technology for the masses to capture their loved ones on film. Tintypes were wildly popular for just a few decades, but remained in use until the 1950s.

A tintype -- also known as a ferrotype -- is an image produced on a thin metallic sheet that is not actually tin but coated iron. The name "tintype" may refer to the tin snips used to cut the sheets apart. Or the name may have generically referred to a cheap metal -- anything other than silver. A tintype is a form of ambrotype, which is an under-exposed negative that appears as a positive image when placed on top of a dark background. Tintypes were a major step forward from glass plate negatives, which were fragile and more time-consuming to produce.

Adolphe Alexandre Martin of France invented the tintype process in 1853. Tintypes were extremely popular among Civil War soldiers, who loved to have their pictures taken in uniform to send back home. Tintypes were also commonly used to photograph the dead, a practice that was popular throughout the 19th century. Itinerant photographers would make tintypes from their tents or horse-drawn wagons. Town photographers used them in their photo parlors.

To create a tintype, the photographer coated the metal plate in collodion or gelatin and other chemicals. He would allow the plate to dry until it just became tacky. Next he dipped the plate into silver nitrate. The photographer had to take the picture before the plate dried completely. It took about five seconds of exposure, so photographers often provided a headrest for portrait sittings to help the subject remain still. The tintype was then mounted and coated with varnish before being presented to the customer. The image on a tintype appears "backward" because it is a negative. Objects held in the right hand appear to be held in the left, as if looking into a mirror.

Tintypes were sturdier than ambrotypes, so they could be mailed or mounted in an album, yet they were thin enough to be cut into smaller shapes for brooches or lockets. Tintypes were also less expensive to produce than other technologies available at the time, making them more affordable for the working class. Before tintypes, only the wealthy were able to create images of their cherished friends and loved ones.

Tintypes were typically produced in a size known as "carte-de-visite" which was 2 inches wide and 3 inches tall. Larger and smaller sizes were also produced. A tiny postage stamp size called "Little Gem" was also popular.

Gelatin emulsion dry plates began to replace the tintype in the 1880s. However, the process was still used by some photographers until the 1950s. Later, Polaroid instant film and 35mm film completely transformed the photography industry, and the tintype was no longer used.

Tintype photography falls between the invention of the daguerreotype in 1833 and the introduction of rolled film in 1888.

Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

. In the mid-19th century, the tintype provided an inexpensive technology for the masses to capture their loved ones on film. Tintypes were wildly popular for just a few decades, but remained in use until the 1950s.

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