Saturday, March 31, 2018

How to Make a Pinhole Camera Using 110 Film

Introduced in the early 1970s, 110 film was originally made for less expensive cameras. These days, 110 film is more difficult to locate because some major retailers no longer carry it and the camera companies themselves produce less of it. In many cases, it is more difficult to find than 35mm film. Because of its packaging, though, 110 film is great for making a pinhole camera, needing few materials and little time.

Instructions

    1

    Look on the back of your film canister and wind your film, using the cog on the top of the film canister until you have passed several arrows and reached the second number 1 on the canister. Whenever you take an exposure, wind your film past the arrows until you reach the second number in the series of four. Since this may differ with each brand of film, you may want to test how much the film needs to be wound so you don't ruin a roll with double exposures.

    2

    Measure the width and height of your film hole. Cut a small piece of aluminum that size from your clean aluminum can.

    3

    Using a pin, create a tiny hole in the center of the piece of aluminum you just cut out of the can.

    4

    Tape the aluminum piece down onto the 110 film canister, covering the film, using your electrical tape. Tape anywhere else where light may come through, but leave your film counter on the back of the film visible.

    5

    Expose your film (see the link in Resources).

    6

    Take your film into a photo development store for processing.


Introduced in the early 1970s, 110 film was originally made for less expensive cameras. These days, 110 film is more difficult to locate because some major retailers no longer carry it and the camera companies themselves produce less of it. In many cases, it is more difficult to find than 35mm film. Because of its packaging, though, 110 film is great for making a pinhole camera, needing few materials and little time.

Instructions

    1

    Look on the back of your film canister and wind your film, using the cog on the top of the film canister until you have passed several arrows and reached the second number 1 on the canister.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Whenever you take an exposure, wind your film past the arrows until you reach the second number in the series of four. Since this may differ with each brand of film, you may want to test how much the film needs to be wound so you don't ruin a roll with double exposures.

    2

    Measure the width and height of your film hole. Cut a small piece of aluminum that size from your clean aluminum can.

    3

    Using a pin, create a tiny hole in the center of the piece of aluminum you just cut out of the can.

    4

    Tape the aluminum piece down onto the 110 film canister, covering the film, using your electrical tape. Tape anywhere else where light may come through, but leave your film counter on the back of the film visible.

    5

    Expose your film (see the link in Resources).

    6

    Take your film into a photo development store for processing.



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How to Use a Pentax 67

How to Use a Pentax 67

In most regards, the Pentax 67 medium format SLR operates like smaller 35mm SLRs on which Pentax based the design. The major difference comes when loading and unloading 120 and 220 format roll film. This article assumes familiarity with 35mm SLR film cameras and 35mm sprocketed film and explains how to perform the operations that differ when using a Pentax 67 with medium format sprocketless, roll film---specifically loading and unloading film.

Instructions

Loading and Unloading Film from a Pentax 67

    1

    Find an area away from direct sunlight to load the film. Locate the 120/220 switch on the upper right side of the camera, and turn it using a coin so it points to the type of film you have. Remove the roll of film from the outer foil or plastic packaging and set aside.

    2

    Open the rear cover of the camera by sliding down the steel release located on the bottom left side of the camera. If you find an empty black plastic or metal film spool in the left side film chamber you must take it out and place it in the right side. Release the round film spool holder on the outer bottom left side of the camera (turn it and pull down) and pull the spool out of the chamber.

    3

    Place the empty spool in the right film chamber by turning and pulling down on the round steel film spool release on the bottom right side of the camera. Insert the empty spool so that it locks into place at the top of the chamber. Then turn and push closed the spool release at the bottom of the camera.

    4

    Remove the strip of paper tape from around the roll of film, and insert the film into the left film chamber so that (looking from the bottom of the camera) the film will unroll in a clockwise direction. (As the paper lays across the back of the camera you should see the outside of the paper with printing on it.) Gently pull the tapered end of the paper across the back of the camera, and insert it into the slit of the empty spool in the right film chamber.

    5

    Using the film advance lever on the top right of the camera, wind the paper around the empty spool one or two cranks. Then carefully continue advancing the film around the spool until you see a vertical arrow printed across the back of the film paper. Align this arrow with the small colored indicator for the film type (120 or 220) you are using. This small mark is above the shutter opening and below and to the left of the viewfinder.

    6

    Before closing the camera back, look at the pressure plate on the inside of the door. If the plate is not set to the correct film type, gently push it in and slide it to the opposite side. You can confirm that it is set correctly by looking at the film type indicator on the outside of the camera back.

    7

    Close the camera. Be certain the film door release latches shut. Continue winding the film advance lever until the number "1" appears on the film counter. The shutter is cocked, and you are ready to start shooting.

    8

    Shoot the film as you would with a 35mm SLR. When you have reached the end of the roll of film, continue winding the film advance lever until you feel and hear the end of the film unwind from the roll that you inserted.

    9

    In a dimly lit area, open the back of the camera, and remove the exposed film roll by reversing the steps you followed to insert the empty spool on the right side of the camera. Depending on the brand of film, you will need to secure the paper around the film by peeling off the adhesive backing on the paper tape on the outside of the finished roll or by licking the adhesive backing like a postage stamp.


How to Use a Pentax 67

In most regards, the Pentax 67 medium format SLR operates like smaller 35mm SLRs on which Pentax based the design. The major difference comes when loading and unloading 120 and 220 format roll film.

Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

. This article assumes familiarity with 35mm SLR film cameras and 35mm sprocketed film and explains how to perform the operations that differ when using a Pentax 67 with medium format sprocketless, roll film---specifically loading and unloading film.

Instructions

Loading and Unloading Film from a Pentax 67

    1

    Find an area away from direct sunlight to load the film. Locate the 120/220 switch on the upper right side of the camera, and turn it using a coin so it points to the type of film you have. Remove the roll of film from the outer foil or plastic packaging and set aside.

    2

    Open the rear cover of the camera by sliding down the steel release located on the bottom left side of the camera. If you find an empty black plastic or metal film spool in the left side film chamber you must take it out and place it in the right side. Release the round film spool holder on the outer bottom left side of the camera (turn it and pull down) and pull the spool out of the chamber.

    3

    Place the empty spool in the right film chamber by turning and pulling down on the round steel film spool release on the bottom right side of the camera. Insert the empty spool so that it locks into place at the top of the chamber. Then turn and push closed the spool release at the bottom of the camera.

    4

    Remove the strip of paper tape from around the roll of film, and insert the film into the left film chamber so that (looking from the bottom of the camera) the film will unroll in a clockwise direction. (As the paper lays across the back of the camera you should see the outside of the paper with printing on it.) Gently pull the tapered end of the paper across the back of the camera, and insert it into the slit of the empty spool in the right film chamber.

    5

    Using the film advance lever on the top right of the camera, wind the paper around the empty spool one or two cranks. Then carefully continue advancing the film around the spool until you see a vertical arrow printed across the back of the film paper. Align this arrow with the small colored indicator for the film type (120 or 220) you are using. This small mark is above the shutter opening and below and to the left of the viewfinder.

    6

    Before closing the camera back, look at the pressure plate on the inside of the door. If the plate is not set to the correct film type, gently push it in and slide it to the opposite side. You can confirm that it is set correctly by looking at the film type indicator on the outside of the camera back.

    7

    Close the camera. Be certain the film door release latches shut. Continue winding the film advance lever until the number "1" appears on the film counter. The shutter is cocked, and you are ready to start shooting.

    8

    Shoot the film as you would with a 35mm SLR. When you have reached the end of the roll of film, continue winding the film advance lever until you feel and hear the end of the film unwind from the roll that you inserted.

    9

    In a dimly lit area, open the back of the camera, and remove the exposed film roll by reversing the steps you followed to insert the empty spool on the right side of the camera. Depending on the brand of film, you will need to secure the paper around the film by peeling off the adhesive backing on the paper tape on the outside of the finished roll or by licking the adhesive backing like a postage stamp.



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Traditional Darkroom Techniques

Traditional Darkroom Techniques

Soon after the use of negatives became common in the development of photos, photographers tried different manipulations to improve or alter prints. Some techniques work with color and black-and-white negatives. By becoming proficient with different techniques, a photographer can improve the quality and expand the presentation of his or her images.

Cropping

    Cropping is printing a portion of a full negative. Raising or lowering an enlarger in a darkroom will show more or less of the negative. A photographer can use this method to control composition. This technique allows zooming in and printing a small portion of the negative. It also allows a photographer to view more area within a print, such as more space at the top or in front of a subject.

Print Exposure

    The exposure of a print is similar to exposing a negative. Print exposure depends on time and f-stop setting. After cropping a negative, close an enlarger lens a few stops from wide open. Put a portion of printing paper on an area where light and dark areas of the final print will be featured. Cover all but one section of the paper with a piece of cardboard. Expose it for 5 seconds. The time chosen for this process depends on the size of print and the amount of cropping. Small enlargements will require less time. Move the cardboard to expose another strip and expose it for 5 more seconds. Do this process several times. Developing the paper will show rows of the print from underexposed to overexposed. Set time to create a test print. This will give an indication for using other techniques.

Burning In

    Burning is a correctional technique that improves a print. If a negative has a "hot spot," or an area that received more exposure than the rest, a photographer can expose that part for a longer time to darken it and balance the print exposure. It's possible to burn in more than one hot spot. Make tools such as a piece of cardboard with various hole sizes or pieces of paper taped to a wire rod to use this technique. Paper cut to a shape that fits the requirement of the print will work. Hands also can work because movement of the hands or other objects is essential to blend one area with another.

Dodging

    Dodging a print is the opposite of burning. Use this technique when one area prints darker than desired. This could be a shadow area appearing in a photograph. Holding light from it during printing allows more detail to become visible in the final print. Dodging also requires movement of the light to avoid leaving a sharp unwanted edge from appearing in the print.


Traditional Darkroom Techniques

Soon after the use of negatives became common in the development of photos, photographers tried different manipulations to improve or alter prints. Some techniques work with color and black-and-white negatives. By becoming proficient with different techniques, a photographer can improve the quality and expand the presentation of his or her images.

Cropping

    Cropping is printing a portion of a full negative. Raising or lowering an enlarger in a darkroom will show more or less of the negative. A photographer can use this method to control composition. This technique allows zooming in and printing a small portion of the negative. It also allows a photographer to view more area within a print, such as more space at the top or in front of a subject.

Print Exposure

    The exposure of a print is similar to exposing a negative. Print exposure depends on time and f-stop setting. After cropping a negative, close an enlarger lens a few stops from wide open. Put a portion of printing paper on an area where light and dark areas of the final print will be featured. Cover all but one section of the paper with a piece of cardboard. Expose it for 5 seconds. The time chosen for this process depends on the size of print and the amount of cropping. Small enlargements will require less time. Move the cardboard to expose another strip and expose it for 5 more seconds. Do this process several times. Developing the paper will show rows of the print from underexposed to overexposed. Set time to create a test print. This will give an indication for using other techniques.

Burning In

    Burning is a correctional technique that improves a print. If a negative has a "hot spot," or an area that received more exposure than the rest, a photographer can expose that part for a longer time to darken it and balance the print exposure. It's possible to burn in more than one hot spot. Make tools such as a piece of cardboard with various hole sizes or pieces of paper taped to a wire rod to use this technique. Paper cut to a shape that fits the requirement of the print will work. Hands also can work because movement of the hands or other objects is essential to blend one area with another.

Dodging

    Dodging a print is the opposite of burning. Use this technique when one area prints darker than desired. This could be a shadow area appearing in a photograph. Holding light from it during printing allows more detail to become visible in the final print. Dodging also requires movement of the light to avoid leaving a sharp unwanted edge from appearing in the print.



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Wednesday, March 28, 2018

Tips for Using a Minolta XG-1 SLR Camera

Tips for Using a Minolta XG-1 SLR Camera

The Minolta XG-1 is a classic single lens reflex camera. Once film is installed, the camera is easy to learn how to use. You can take as many pictures as you have film for as long as the camera is clean and the shutter speed and light-meter mechanisms are set.

Instructions

    1

    Clean any dust or dirt off the camera with a soft cloth. Use a sheet of lens paper to clean the lens to avoid scratching it. Dust left on the lens will interfere with the image you are trying to shoot and dust on the camera body can coat the film when it is being loaded.

    2

    Check the batteries. The Minolta XG-1 uses A-76 batteries to operate its light meter system, which determines film exposure. A dial on the left of the camera controls and measures battery power. Rotate the dial to BC, or battery charge. If the batteries are charged, a light on the left of the lens will illuminate.

    3

    Change the batteries if the light did not turn on. To install them, use a coin to open the round plug on the bottom of the camera. Pull the plug and batteries out and replace the batteries. Check the battery light again after installing new batteries.

    4

    Set the shutter speed to a slow setting to test the shutter. A dial on the right of the camera controls the shutter speed, with speeds ranging from 1 second to 1/1,000ths of a second. Line the 1 up with the small line next the camera's prism and look through the viewfinder. Push the operating button in the middle of the shutter-speed dial. There will be a click and the screen should go dark for a second while a picture is taken.

    5

    Pull the film advance lever behind the shutter dial to advance film to the next frame. If the lever doesn't move, rewind and replace the film.

    6

    Rewind the film using the small toggle in the center of the left dial. Push the small unlock button on the right of the camera bottom. Open the toggle on top of the camera and wind it counterclockwise until you feel a slight resistance as the film comes free.

    7

    Pull up the knob with the toggle to open the camera's back and remove a film canister.

    8

    To place a new film canister in the camera, pull the film tail across the back of the camera and slide it into the slot in the right spindle. Pull the film advance lever once so that the spindle catches the film.

    9

    Close the camera and turn it on. Adjust the shutter speed to the right setting for your lighting and check the light meter before taking pictures.


Tips for Using a Minolta XG-1 SLR Camera

The Minolta XG-1 is a classic single lens reflex camera. Once film is installed, the camera is easy to learn how to use. You can take as many pictures as you have film for as long as the camera is clean and the shutter speed and light-meter mechanisms are set.

Instructions

    1

    Clean any dust or dirt off the camera with a soft cloth. Use a sheet of lens paper to clean the lens to avoid scratching it. Dust left on the lens will interfere with the image you are trying to shoot and dust on the camera body can coat the film when it is being loaded.

    2

    Check the batteries. The Minolta XG-1 uses A-76 batteries to operate its light meter system, which determines film exposure. A dial on the left of the camera controls and measures battery power. Rotate the dial to BC, or battery charge. If the batteries are charged, a light on the left of the lens will illuminate.

    3

    Change the batteries if the light did not turn on. To install them, use a coin to open the round plug on the bottom of the camera. Pull the plug and batteries out and replace the batteries. Check the battery light again after installing new batteries.

    4

    Set the shutter speed to a slow setting to test the shutter. A dial on the right of the camera controls the shutter speed, with speeds ranging from 1 second to 1/1,000ths of a second. Line the 1 up with the small line next the camera's prism and look through the viewfinder. Push the operating button in the middle of the shutter-speed dial. There will be a click and the screen should go dark for a second while a picture is taken.

    5

    Pull the film advance lever behind the shutter dial to advance film to the next frame. If the lever doesn't move, rewind and replace the film.

    6

    Rewind the film using the small toggle in the center of the left dial. Push the small unlock button on the right of the camera bottom. Open the toggle on top of the camera and wind it counterclockwise until you feel a slight resistance as the film comes free.

    7

    Pull up the knob with the toggle to open the camera's back and remove a film canister.

    8

    To place a new film canister in the camera, pull the film tail across the back of the camera and slide it into the slot in the right spindle. Pull the film advance lever once so that the spindle catches the film.

    9

    Close the camera and turn it on. Adjust the shutter speed to the right setting for your lighting and check the light meter before taking pictures.



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How to Remove an Object From a Photo

How to Remove an Object From a Photo

Image-editing programs enable photographers to remove unwanted objects from their photos that they may have missed during shooting or could not avoid capturing. The process of removing objects from photos is simple and can improve their composition tremendously. By sampling the surrounding environment with a clone tool found in many image-editing programs, objects can be erased from pictures in an instant.

Instructions

    1

    Identify the object that you want to remove from the photograph. Take note of its context and find a part of the photograph that could cover up the unwanted object if duplicated.

    2

    Sample an area around the photograph that would inconspicuously cover up the unwanted object in the photograph. For example, a rock lying in a grassy field could be covered up with samples of surrounding grass. A painting on a wall could be covered with parts of the wall that share the same color tone. To select a sample with Paint.Net or GIMP, move the clone tool over the sample area and press the "Ctrl" button and click the mouse simultaneously. In Photoshop, press "Alt" instead of "Ctrl."

    3

    Replace the unwanted object by hovering the clone tool over and clicking on it. Ensure that the paintbrush is set to a large enough size so that it covers the entire object. Setting the clone tool to have a feathered edge in the program toolbar will also help to blend the duplicated sample into the photograph.


How to Remove an Object From a Photo

Image-editing programs enable photographers to remove unwanted objects from their photos that they may have missed during shooting or could not avoid capturing. The process of removing objects from photos is simple and can improve their composition tremendously. By sampling the surrounding environment with a clone tool found in many image-editing programs, objects can be erased from pictures in an instant.

Instructions

    1

    Identify the object that you want to remove from the photograph. Take note of its context and find a part of the photograph that could cover up the unwanted object if duplicated.

    2

    Sample an area around the photograph that would inconspicuously cover up the unwanted object in the photograph. For example, a rock lying in a grassy field could be covered up with samples of surrounding grass. A painting on a wall could be covered with parts of the wall that share the same color tone. To select a sample with Paint.Net or GIMP, move the clone tool over the sample area and press the "Ctrl" button and click the mouse simultaneously. In Photoshop, press "Alt" instead of "Ctrl."

    3

    Replace the unwanted object by hovering the clone tool over and clicking on it. Ensure that the paintbrush is set to a large enough size so that it covers the entire object. Setting the clone tool to have a feathered edge in the program toolbar will also help to blend the duplicated sample into the photograph.



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