Wednesday, November 30, 2016

How to Make a Light Box for Small Objects

How to Make a Light Box for Small Objects

A light box is a photography studio in miniature. It's an enclosure designed to give the photographer total control over the light and shadows cast on a small object. It's especially useful for preventing reflections from appearing on shiny surfaces of things like musical instruments. Professional light boxes can cost $75 to $150 or more, but the photographer on a tight budget can get similar results for a fraction of the cost.

Instructions

Construction

    1

    Choose a cardboard box big enough to hold and display your subjects. The open top of the box will become the window for the camera to peer into, while the remaining sides will become lighting windows.

    2

    Cut windows into the box. Turn each remaining side of the box into an open window by cutting out the side. You'll want as much open space as you can manage; leave about an inch of cardboard available as a support frame.

    3

    Add the paper. Sheets of white tissue paper from a nearby gift store are perfect for this step. Cut them to the same size as the sides of the box, and tape them down over the open windows. The paper will soften the light cast across the subject, so there won't be crisp black shadows cast. As an added bonus, they will isolate the subject from the rest of the room, so there won't be any distracting reflections.

    4

    Add the backdrop. The last piece of the construction is one sheet of poster board. This is used as a backdrop, to hide the cardboard and tape of the inside of the box from the camera. Place it inside the box, beneath and behind the subject, curving up to the top of the box.

    5

    Prepare the light box for use. Set the box on one side so the flaps are vertical. Place the subject inside, and set up the lights outside. Place the camera on a tripod just outside the box, and pull the flaps close around the lens.


How to Make a Light Box for Small Objects

A light box is a photography studio in miniature. It's an enclosure designed to give the photographer total control over the light and shadows cast on a small object. It's especially useful for preventing reflections from appearing on shiny surfaces of things like musical instruments. Professional light boxes can cost $75 to $150 or more, but the photographer on a tight budget can get similar results for a fraction of the cost.

Instructions

Construction

    1

    Choose a cardboard box big enough to hold and display your subjects. The open top of the box will become the window for the camera to peer into, while the remaining sides will become lighting windows.

    2

    Cut windows into the box. Turn each remaining side of the box into an open window by cutting out the side. You'll want as much open space as you can manage; leave about an inch of cardboard available as a support frame.

    3

    Add the paper. Sheets of white tissue paper from a nearby gift store are perfect for this step. Cut them to the same size as the sides of the box, and tape them down over the open windows. The paper will soften the light cast across the subject, so there won't be crisp black shadows cast. As an added bonus, they will isolate the subject from the rest of the room, so there won't be any distracting reflections.

    4

    Add the backdrop. The last piece of the construction is one sheet of poster board. This is used as a backdrop, to hide the cardboard and tape of the inside of the box from the camera. Place it inside the box, beneath and behind the subject, curving up to the top of the box.

    5

    Prepare the light box for use.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Set the box on one side so the flaps are vertical. Place the subject inside, and set up the lights outside. Place the camera on a tripod just outside the box, and pull the flaps close around the lens.



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Monday, November 28, 2016

How to Process Infrared DSLR

How to Process Infrared DSLR

The use of infrared photography has spread among photographers who are finding different applications for it. Once reserved for landscape photography, infrared photographs can now be found in various styles including wedding and forensic photography. Infrared photographs can be taken with film cameras or on DSLRs. However, the latter of the two need to be processed during post-production to adjust the color balances and make the subject "pop" out of the photograph. Photoshop offers a relatively easy approach to the digital infrared photograph process.

Instructions

    1

    Apply the auto level option to the photograph. Select the "Image" menu, then click "Adjustments" -- then "Auto." Click "OK" to save and exit out of the dialog box.

    2
    Use Photoshop to process infrared photos.
    Use Photoshop to process infrared photos.

    Adjust the tonal curves and contrast of your photograph by selecting the "Image" menu, then clicking "Levels." This will bring up a dialog box. Drag the black arrow to the right to be in line with the start of the curve. Drag the white arrow to the left to where the curve starts on that side. Click "OK" to save the settings and exit the adjustment box.

    3

    Swap the red channel of your photograph for blue. Select "Image," then "Adjustments" -- then click "Channel Mixer." When the channel mixer dialog box appears, change the "Output Channel" to "Red." Now, drag the "Red" slider to the center until it is on "0%" and drag the "Blue" slider to the right until it reads "100%." Do not close the dialog box yet.

    4

    Change the "Red" "Output Channel" to "Blue" in the "Channel Mixer" dialog box. Now, drag the "Red" slider to the right until it is on "100%" and drag the "Blue" slider to the center until it reads "0%." Click "OK" to save the settings and exit the dialog box.

    5

    Adjust the tonal range to align with the photo's setting. Select the "Image" menu, then click "Adjustments" -- then click "Shadow/Highlight." The "Shadow/Highlight" dialog box will appear. It is recommended to set the "Radius" in between 250 and 350 px. However, adjust the range to suit your taste. Click "OK" to save and exit out of the dialog box. This completes the processing of your digital infrared photo.


How to Process Infrared DSLR

The use of infrared photography has spread among photographers who are finding different applications for it. Once reserved for landscape photography, infrared photographs can now be found in various styles including wedding and forensic photography. Infrared photographs can be taken with film cameras or on DSLRs. However, the latter of the two need to be processed during post-production to adjust the color balances and make the subject "pop" out of the photograph. Photoshop offers a relatively easy approach to the digital infrared photograph process.

Instructions

    1

    Apply the auto level option to the photograph. Select the "Image" menu, then click "Adjustments" -- then "Auto." Click "OK" to save and exit out of the dialog box.

    2
    Use Photoshop to process infrared photos.
    Use Photoshop to process infrared photos.

    Adjust the tonal curves and contrast of your photograph by selecting the "Image" menu, then clicking "Levels." This will bring up a dialog box. Drag the black arrow to the right to be in line with the start of the curve. Drag the white arrow to the left to where the curve starts on that side. Click "OK" to save the settings and exit the adjustment box.

    3

    Swap the red channel of your photograph for blue. Select "Image," then "Adjustments" -- then click "Channel Mixer." When the channel mixer dialog box appears, change the "Output Channel" to "Red." Now, drag the "Red" slider to the center until it is on "0%" and drag the "Blue" slider to the right until it reads "100%." Do not close the dialog box yet.

    4

    Change the "Red" "Output Channel" to "Blue" in the "Channel Mixer" dialog box. Now, drag the "Red" slider to the right until it is on "100%" and drag the "Blue" slider to the center until it reads "0%." Click "OK" to save the settings and exit the dialog box.

    5

    Adjust the tonal range to align with the photo's setting. Select the "Image" menu, then click "Adjustments" -- then click "Shadow/Highlight." The "Shadow/Highlight" dialog box will appear. It is recommended to set the "Radius" in between 250 and 350 px. However, adjust the range to suit your taste. Click "OK" to save and exit out of the dialog box. This completes the processing of your digital infrared photo.



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Saturday, November 26, 2016

How to Use Light as Symbol in Black and White Photography

How to Use Light as Symbol in Black and White Photography

Light is the most important symbol in black and white photography. In fact, it is light that is photographed--the play of light in its continuum from black to white. The four main functions of light--illumination, symbol, mood and design--allow the photographer to control a subject and to communicate her vision to viewers. The photographer can utilize light from five directions to create mood and artistic form. Some lighting is best to avoid except for specific creative purposes.

Instructions

    1

    Measure the strength of illumination as its intensity varies from light to dark. The brighter the light, the harsher and more matter-of-fact your subject will appear. Dim light is vague, restful and suggests mood.

    2

    Control contrast and depth with direction. You must distinguish between light from five directions. Front light strikes the subject from the general direction of the camera and is best suited for accurate color renditions. Side light radiates to one side of a subject, but always is more from the front than the back. Side lighting suggests three-dimensionality and creates consistently good, but not spectacular, effects.

    3

    Throw shadows toward the camera with backlight that is more or less behind the subject. Backlight creates high subject contrast. Caution is needed. There is danger of flare and halation from the light source. Light may shine directly onto the lens or possibly create excessive contrast that results in overexposure and under exposure in the same picture.

    4

    Use judgment regarding top light. Light at high noon or any light generally above the subject is less photogenic. Vertical surfaces are less illuminated. Shadows are too small and poorly placed for good depth symbolizing.

    5

    Produce light from below with photo lamps. Light from below normally does not occur in nature, but creates an unnatural theatrical effect. Because the effect is startling, it invites misuse of novelty for novelty's sake.


How to Use Light as Symbol in Black and White Photography

Light is the most important symbol in black and white photography. In fact, it is light that is photographed--the play of light in its continuum from black to white. The four main functions of light--illumination, symbol, mood and design--allow the photographer to control a subject and to communicate her vision to viewers. The photographer can utilize light from five directions to create mood and artistic form. Some lighting is best to avoid except for specific creative purposes.

Instructions

    1

    Measure the strength of illumination as its intensity varies from light to dark.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . The brighter the light, the harsher and more matter-of-fact your subject will appear. Dim light is vague, restful and suggests mood.

    2

    Control contrast and depth with direction. You must distinguish between light from five directions. Front light strikes the subject from the general direction of the camera and is best suited for accurate color renditions. Side light radiates to one side of a subject, but always is more from the front than the back. Side lighting suggests three-dimensionality and creates consistently good, but not spectacular, effects.

    3

    Throw shadows toward the camera with backlight that is more or less behind the subject. Backlight creates high subject contrast. Caution is needed. There is danger of flare and halation from the light source. Light may shine directly onto the lens or possibly create excessive contrast that results in overexposure and under exposure in the same picture.

    4

    Use judgment regarding top light. Light at high noon or any light generally above the subject is less photogenic. Vertical surfaces are less illuminated. Shadows are too small and poorly placed for good depth symbolizing.

    5

    Produce light from below with photo lamps. Light from below normally does not occur in nature, but creates an unnatural theatrical effect. Because the effect is startling, it invites misuse of novelty for novelty's sake.



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