Wednesday, March 30, 2016

How to Develop T-Max 100 35mm Film Negatives

How to Develop T-Max 100 35mm Film Negatives

Kodak T-Max is a versatile panchromatic black-and-white film which produces fine-grain images even at higher film speeds. It can be processed successfully with most black-and-white film developers. The secrets to successfully developing any black-and-white film involve handling the film in complete darkness, either in a photo darkroom or with a light-tight changing bag, and controlling the concentration, temperature and time of the developing chemicals.

Instructions

Prepare the Chemicals

    1

    Mix the developer, stop bath and fixer in separate one-gallon jugs. Add hot tap water to ensure the chemicals completely dissolve, and allow several hours for the solutions to cool to room temperature.

    2

    Label the jugs with the names of the chemicals and the date you mixed them.

    3

    Mix a final concentration of developer in the measuring cup, just before you are ready to process the film. Kodak recommends using 1 part T-Max developer to 4 parts water. Only mix as much developer as you will need to fill the developing tank. Assuming your tank needs 500 ml of solution, pour 100 ml of developer into the measuring cup and fill with 70-degree Fahrenheit tap water to 500 ml. Use the stop bath and fixer right out of the jug with no additional dilution.

Turn Out the Lights and Load the Film

    4

    Place the developing tank, reels, film cannisters, scissors and bottle opener in the changing bag and seal the bag. If you are working in a darkroom, lay these items out on a work bench so you can find them in complete darkness, then turn out the lights.

    5

    Pop off one end of the metal 35-mm film cannister with the bottle opener and remove the film. One end of the roll will be taped to a small plastic spool and the free end will have a narrow leader about 3 inches long.

    6

    Snip off the leader with the scissors. Feel the cut end to make sure there are no jagged edges, especially around the sprockets near the edges of the film. These can cause jamming when loading the film onto a reel.

    7

    Load the film onto a reel. If you are using plastic reels, push the cut end of the film roll into the guides at the outside edge of the reel until you feel resistance, then twist the top and bottom of the reel back and forth repeatedly. This will grab the film and progressively push it onto the reel. Loading a stainless steel reel takes a little practice. Attach the free end of the film to the clip at the center of the reel. Hold the reel in your left hand and the film in the right. With your right thumb and index finger, bow the film slightly in the direction of the emulsion. The film will naturally curl this way, anyway. With your left hand, turn the reel counterclockwise. The film will load onto the spool from the inside out.

    8

    Snip off the tape and spool at the end of the roll.

    9

    Place the loaded reel into the developing tank and attach the light-tight lid.

Turn on the Lights and Develop the Film

    10

    Pour the developer into the tank, via its baffled, light-tight pour spout. Start the timer or note the time on your clock when you start to pour. Snap the lid on the tank's pour spout to avoid spilling.

    11

    Hold the tank in one hand with your arm extended and invert it repeatedly by twisting your hand back and forth 180 degrees. Kodak recommends inverting the tank in this manner five to seven times within 5 seconds. Tap the bottom of the tank firmly on your work bench to dislodge any air bubbles on the film or reel.

    12

    Repeat this agitation once every 30 seconds throughout the development time. According to Kodak's technical sheet F-4016, T-Max 400 film should be developed for 6.5 minutes at 70 degrees F with T-Max developer diluted 1:4.

    13

    Pour out the developer 10 seconds before the time is up. The diluted developer cannot be reused, so pour it down the drain or, preferably, into a recycling bucket.

    14

    Pour stop bath into the tank and agitate as described above. After one minute, pour the stop bath back into its jug.

    15

    Pour the fixer into the tank and agitate as above, every minute. Fixing times vary based on the age and temperature of the fixer, but about 15 minutes at room temperature should do. After about 2 minutes of fixing, your film is no longer light sensitive and you may remove the lid of the tank to inspect your film. When T-Max film is under-fixed, it has a slightly pink tint. Leave your film in the fixer until this tint is gone.

    16

    Pour the fixer back into its jug and wash the film, on the reel, for at least 20 minutes in running tap water.

    17

    Remove the film from the reel and, using string and clothespins, hang in a relatively dust-free environment for several hours to dry. Attach a clothespin to the bottom of the film to minimize curling.


How to Develop T-Max 100 35mm Film Negatives

Kodak T-Max is a versatile panchromatic black-and-white film which produces fine-grain images even at higher film speeds. It can be processed successfully with most black-and-white film developers. The secrets to successfully developing any black-and-white film involve handling the film in complete darkness, either in a photo darkroom or with a light-tight changing bag, and controlling the concentration, temperature and time of the developing chemicals.

Instructions

Prepare the Chemicals

    1

    Mix the developer, stop bath and fixer in separate one-gallon jugs. Add hot tap water to ensure the chemicals completely dissolve, and allow several hours for the solutions to cool to room temperature.

    2

    Label the jugs with the names of the chemicals and the date you mixed them.

    3

    Mix a final concentration of developer in the measuring cup, just before you are ready to process the film. Kodak recommends using 1 part T-Max developer to 4 parts water. Only mix as much developer as you will need to fill the developing tank. Assuming your tank needs 500 ml of solution, pour 100 ml of developer into the measuring cup and fill with 70-degree Fahrenheit tap water to 500 ml. Use the stop bath and fixer right out of the jug with no additional dilution.

Turn Out the Lights and Load the Film

    4

    Place the developing tank, reels, film cannisters, scissors and bottle opener in the changing bag and seal the bag. If you are working in a darkroom, lay these items out on a work bench so you can find them in complete darkness, then turn out the lights.

    5

    Pop off one end of the metal 35-mm film cannister with the bottle opener and remove the film. One end of the roll will be taped to a small plastic spool and the free end will have a narrow leader about 3 inches long.

    6

    Snip off the leader with the scissors. Feel the cut end to make sure there are no jagged edges, especially around the sprockets near the edges of the film. These can cause jamming when loading the film onto a reel.

    7

    Load the film onto a reel. If you are using plastic reels, push the cut end of the film roll into the guides at the outside edge of the reel until you feel resistance, then twist the top and bottom of the reel back and forth repeatedly. This will grab the film and progressively push it onto the reel. Loading a stainless steel reel takes a little practice. Attach the free end of the film to the clip at the center of the reel. Hold the reel in your left hand and the film in the right. With your right thumb and index finger, bow the film slightly in the direction of the emulsion. The film will naturally curl this way, anyway. With your left hand, turn the reel counterclockwise. The film will load onto the spool from the inside out.

    8

    Snip off the tape and spool at the end of the roll.

    9

    Place the loaded reel into the developing tank and attach the light-tight lid.

Turn on the Lights and Develop the Film

    10

    Pour the developer into the tank, via its baffled, light-tight pour spout. Start the timer or note the time on your clock when you start to pour. Snap the lid on the tank's pour spout to avoid spilling.

    11

    Hold the tank in one hand with your arm extended and invert it repeatedly by twisting your hand back and forth 180 degrees. Kodak recommends inverting the tank in this manner five to seven times within 5 seconds. Tap the bottom of the tank firmly on your work bench to dislodge any air bubbles on the film or reel.

    12

    Repeat this agitation once every 30 seconds throughout the development time. According to Kodak's technical sheet F-4016, T-Max 400 film should be developed for 6.5 minutes at 70 degrees F with T-Max developer diluted 1:4.

    13

    Pour out the developer 10 seconds before the time is up. The diluted developer cannot be reused, so pour it down the drain or, preferably, into a recycling bucket.

    14

    Pour stop bath into the tank and agitate as described above. After one minute, pour the stop bath back into its jug.

    15

    Pour the fixer into the tank and agitate as above, every minute. Fixing times vary based on the age and temperature of the fixer, but about 15 minutes at room temperature should do. After about 2 minutes of fixing, your film is no longer light sensitive and you may remove the lid of the tank to inspect your film. When T-Max film is under-fixed, it has a slightly pink tint. Leave your film in the fixer until this tint is gone.

    16

    Pour the fixer back into its jug and wash the film, on the reel, for at least 20 minutes in running tap water.

    17

    Remove the film from the reel and, using string and clothespins, hang in a relatively dust-free environment for several hours to dry. Attach a clothespin to the bottom of the film to minimize curling.



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How to Convert a Photo to Tintype

How to Convert a Photo to Tintype

In the mid-1800s, photography was beginning to gain popularity among the masses. Although paper prints had not yet been developed, an easy, inexpensive method called ferrotype, or tintype, was in vogue. This process created a positive print directly onto a thin iron sheet. Most existing tintypes have a blue, green, sepia or chocolate-brown tint to them that can be duplicated on contemporary photographs using photo editing software. If it seems strange to you to be creating tintypes without tin, don't worry. The originals didn't contain tin either.

Instructions

Manual Conversion

    1

    Open the photograph in a photo editing program, such as Photoshop or GIMP.

    2

    Convert the photo to grayscale.

    3

    Increase the black levels until the shadows are dark.

    4

    Convert the photo to sepia tone or tint it blue, green or chocolate brown. Copy photographs of existing tintypes to achieve an accurate color.

    5

    Select a grunge brush and create scratches, dust or smudges across the photograph to make it look old.

    6

    Darken the edges using a translucent brush or burn tool.

    7

    Draw a ragged selection around the outside of the photograph, invert the selection and delete the edges to make the photograph look worn.

    8

    Create a layer that looks like aged metal. You can do this on your own using textures, brushes and layers of color, or you can download a texture from the Internet.

    9

    Place the photograph onto the metal background to complete the tintype.

Filters

    10

    Download a tintype filter from the Internet, such as the Tintype Photoshop Action.

    11

    Install the filter into the appropriate directory for your software.

    12

    Open the photograph in the photo editing program.

    13

    Apply the Tintype filter.

    14

    Add additional scratches or effects as deired.


How to Convert a Photo to Tintype

In the mid-1800s, photography was beginning to gain popularity among the masses. Although paper prints had not yet been developed, an easy, inexpensive method called ferrotype, or tintype, was in vogue. This process created a positive print directly onto a thin iron sheet. Most existing tintypes have a blue, green, sepia or chocolate-brown tint to them that can be duplicated on contemporary photographs using photo editing software. If it seems strange to you to be creating tintypes without tin, don't worry. The originals didn't contain tin either.

Instructions

Manual Conversion

    1

    Open the photograph in a photo editing program, such as Photoshop or GIMP.

    2

    Convert the photo to grayscale.

    3

    Increase the black levels until the shadows are dark.

    4

    Convert the photo to sepia tone or tint it blue, green or chocolate brown. Copy photographs of existing tintypes to achieve an accurate color.

    5

    Select a grunge brush and create scratches, dust or smudges across the photograph to make it look old.

    6

    Darken the edges using a translucent brush or burn tool.

    7

    Draw a ragged selection around the outside of the photograph, invert the selection and delete the edges to make the photograph look worn.

    8

    Create a layer that looks like aged metal. You can do this on your own using textures, brushes and layers of color, or you can download a texture from the Internet.

    9

    Place the photograph onto the metal background to complete the tintype.

Filters

    10

    Download a tintype filter from the Internet, such as the Tintype Photoshop Action.

    11

    Install the filter into the appropriate directory for your software.

    12

    Open the photograph in the photo editing program.

    13

    Apply the Tintype filter.

    14

    Add additional scratches or effects as deired.



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Sunday, March 27, 2016

How to Pose When Not Photogenic

Some people are unfortunate in not looking as good in pictures as in person. Other people are even more unfortunate in looking precisely as good in pictures as in person. Whether you are a being so radiant that your beauty can not be captured by current technology, or you're just kind of homely, this article will help you to get the most out of your photos.

Instructions

    1

    Act natural. Many people take on strained smiles and stiff poses when asked to pose for the camera, and this can make you look less attractive. Don't try to smile. Instead, think of something that makes you happy or makes you laugh. You won't necessarily get the full, toothy grin, but you will look relaxed and happy, which almost always looks better than a staged smile.

    2

    Have a few drinks before your photo shoot. This will relax you and probably bring a nice flush to your cheeks.

    3

    Find your best angle. Model before a friend and ask which angle you look best at. Have that friend take several pictures of you so that you can form your own opinion about what angles are most flattering.

    4

    Stand straight. Good posture will make you look more confident, powerful and slim.

    5

    Stick your neck out and tilt your chin down slightly. This will give your face good definition.

    6

    Do something you enjoy. Have someone take your picture while you are painting, playing music or doing whatever hobby you enjoy.

    7

    Recline. Sometimes, it is easier to feel natural and at ease while lying down or lounging. This can lead to better pictures.


Some people are unfortunate in not looking as good in pictures as in person. Other people are even more unfortunate in looking precisely as good in pictures as in person. Whether you are a being so radiant that your beauty can not be captured by current technology, or you're just kind of homely, this article will help you to get the most out of your photos.

Instructions

    1

    Act natural. Many people take on strained smiles and stiff poses when asked to pose for the camera, and this can make you look less attractive. Don't try to smile. Instead, think of something that makes you happy or makes you laugh. You won't necessarily get the full, toothy grin, but you will look relaxed and happy, which almost always looks better than a staged smile.

    2

    Have a few drinks before your photo shoot. This will relax you and probably bring a nice flush to your cheeks.

    3

    Find your best angle.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Model before a friend and ask which angle you look best at. Have that friend take several pictures of you so that you can form your own opinion about what angles are most flattering.

    4

    Stand straight. Good posture will make you look more confident, powerful and slim.

    5

    Stick your neck out and tilt your chin down slightly. This will give your face good definition.

    6

    Do something you enjoy. Have someone take your picture while you are painting, playing music or doing whatever hobby you enjoy.

    7

    Recline. Sometimes, it is easier to feel natural and at ease while lying down or lounging. This can lead to better pictures.



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Ideas for Backyard Photos

Ideas for Backyard Photos

You can shoot a variety of different photos and photo projects in your backyard, depending on what you are shooting and the landscaping design of the yard. With a quality photo camera and a good imagination, a number of different photo options are available to shoot in your backyard.

Portraits

    Portraits are a favorite type of photograph you can take in your backyard, ranging from beauty shots to family portraits to exciting photos for Christmas cards. Shoot photos with the subjects positioned in front of a pretty background in the backyard, like flowers or the house. This depends on the light, which should be in front or above them, so you can clearly see them and they are not backlit. Adjust the background through depth of field by putting the subject or subjects of the photograph closer to the camera and making the background incredibly out of focus.

Time Lapse Night Shots

    Long exposure time-lapse shots are enjoyable to take in a backyard at night, where you can leave the shutter on the camera open for an extended period to allow enough light to hit the film or digital photo to properly expose the picture. Take these photos from different areas of the backyard, exposing Christmas lights hanging over a back patio or small garden lights subtly lighting backyard plants. Use a tripod to make these photos come out crisp and in-focus to stabilize the camera while the shutter is open.

Nature in the Garden

    If there is an extensive garden in your backyard, photographing blooming flowers, insects and any animals which may be in the yard can yield incredible backyard photos to bring the beauty of your backyard onto the walls of your home. Take many of these shots with a longer lens to capture as much detail on flowers, insects or animals as possible, making them seem that much more realistic. These photos will also take some patience to capture, as nature goes by its own schedule.


Ideas for Backyard Photos

You can shoot a variety of different photos and photo projects in your backyard, depending on what you are shooting and the landscaping design of the yard. With a quality photo camera and a good imagination, a number of different photo options are available to shoot in your backyard.

Portraits

    Portraits are a favorite type of photograph you can take in your backyard, ranging from beauty shots to family portraits to exciting photos for Christmas cards. Shoot photos with the subjects positioned in front of a pretty background in the backyard, like flowers or the house.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . This depends on the light, which should be in front or above them, so you can clearly see them and they are not backlit. Adjust the background through depth of field by putting the subject or subjects of the photograph closer to the camera and making the background incredibly out of focus.

Time Lapse Night Shots

    Long exposure time-lapse shots are enjoyable to take in a backyard at night, where you can leave the shutter on the camera open for an extended period to allow enough light to hit the film or digital photo to properly expose the picture. Take these photos from different areas of the backyard, exposing Christmas lights hanging over a back patio or small garden lights subtly lighting backyard plants. Use a tripod to make these photos come out crisp and in-focus to stabilize the camera while the shutter is open.

Nature in the Garden

    If there is an extensive garden in your backyard, photographing blooming flowers, insects and any animals which may be in the yard can yield incredible backyard photos to bring the beauty of your backyard onto the walls of your home. Take many of these shots with a longer lens to capture as much detail on flowers, insects or animals as possible, making them seem that much more realistic. These photos will also take some patience to capture, as nature goes by its own schedule.



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Saturday, March 26, 2016

Can I Make My Own Light Box to View Negatives?

Can I Make My Own Light Box to View Negatives?

Film negatives are used to create finished photos. They are the image that is created by a traditional film camera. Most photographers take many pictures, but develop only a few to save on costs. This is accomplished by viewing the negatives before printing the photographs. Most photographers use a light box to send light through the negatives from behind to make viewing easier.

Materials

    Making a light box is surprisingly easy. The most important step in making a homemade light box is getting the right materials. Buying a light box from a retail store can cost upward of $300, so the materials used will be the greatest source of savings. You will need particleboard, glass, glass frosting and lights to create your light box. These materials should all be readily available at your local hobby store.

Glass

    The glass is perhaps the most important element. It is important to use frosted glass, which will let light though without enabling everything behind it to distract from the picture. The easiest and cheapest way to get frosted glass is to remove the glass from an inexpensive, 5 x 7 or 8 x 10 picture frame. Hobby stores sell spray paint-like glass frosting, which is the cheapest and fastest alternative to etching the glass. Apply this to the glass and allow it to dry while you work on the rest of the light box.

Box

    Make the box to hold the glass and lights out of simple particleboard. You will need to make it large enough to hold the glass from your picture frame. Make the base about one inch larger than the dimensions of the frame, and then add a frame on the top that goes in about an inch to fit around the glass. Add brackets under the frame to hold the glass. You may paint the box black to create a cleaner look for it, but this is optional.

Lights

    Install lights along the bottom of the frame in the box. These are available at a hobby or hardware store. Use a lower wattage for these lights so they do not put out too much heat. Use brackets to hold them in place along the frame. Drill a hole in the box, and then thread the cord out through it to plug it in.

Put it All Together

    The glass should be dry by the time the box and lights are complete. Using care not to break the glass, set it into the brackets on the frame. This will complete the light box. It should end up being much less expensive than buying one outright, and it will still maintain all the functionality of a commercially available light box.


Can I Make My Own Light Box to View Negatives?

Film negatives are used to create finished photos. They are the image that is created by a traditional film camera. Most photographers take many pictures, but develop only a few to save on costs. This is accomplished by viewing the negatives before printing the photographs. Most photographers use a light box to send light through the negatives from behind to make viewing easier.

Materials

    Making a light box is surprisingly easy. The most important step in making a homemade light box is getting the right materials. Buying a light box from a retail store can cost upward of $300, so the materials used will be the greatest source of savings. You will need particleboard, glass, glass frosting and lights to create your light box. These materials should all be readily available at your local hobby store.

Glass

    The glass is perhaps the most important element. It is important to use frosted glass, which will let light though without enabling everything behind it to distract from the picture. The easiest and cheapest way to get frosted glass is to remove the glass from an inexpensive, 5 x 7 or 8 x 10 picture frame. Hobby stores sell spray paint-like glass frosting, which is the cheapest and fastest alternative to etching the glass. Apply this to the glass and allow it to dry while you work on the rest of the light box.

Box

    Make the box to hold the glass and lights out of simple particleboard. You will need to make it large enough to hold the glass from your picture frame. Make the base about one inch larger than the dimensions of the frame, and then add a frame on the top that goes in about an inch to fit around the glass. Add brackets under the frame to hold the glass. You may paint the box black to create a cleaner look for it, but this is optional.

Lights

    Install lights along the bottom of the frame in the box. These are available at a hobby or hardware store. Use a lower wattage for these lights so they do not put out too much heat. Use brackets to hold them in place along the frame. Drill a hole in the box, and then thread the cord out through it to plug it in.

Put it All Together

    The glass should be dry by the time the box and lights are complete. Using care not to break the glass, set it into the brackets on the frame. This will complete the light box. It should end up being much less expensive than buying one outright, and it will still maintain all the functionality of a commercially available light box.



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