Sunday, May 3, 2015

Low Key Photography Lighting Tips

When you hear the term "low key," you might think of something that is simple, calm or tranquil, but in photography, that's not quite the case. A photo's "key" is its overall tone. The elements that play into this are the colors used in the background, and any clothing or props. A low key photo will use dark colors for a dramatic effect. But low key photos must be well lit to compensate for the dark colors.

Dramatic Light

    Because a low key shot is so dark, it is acceptable to use bright, dramatic lighting to enhance the drama. Unlike a middle or high key shot, a low key photograph can use a lighting ratio of 3:1. This means that there are three times more light in the highlights of your subject's face than in the shadows. The contrast can enhance the curves of the face and evoke feelings of deep thought, melancholy or drama.

Subdued Light

    Because low key shots are often minimally lit to draw attention to one feature or create a subdued feeling, this kind of photography lends itself well to only using one light. A single strobe lighting scheme helps to create a muted feel within the photograph. To set up this type of photo, keep your light at a 45-degree angle to your subject. This helps to illuminate the subject without lighting up the background.

Accent Light

    Although some photographers prefer not to add accent lighting to a low key photograph, others use accent lighting to great effect. Accent lights may include "hair lights" that create the illusion of sunlight on the hair, or a "rim light" that is usually placed behind the subject to illuminate them from behind and separate them from the background.


When you hear the term "low key," you might think of something that is simple, calm or tranquil, but in photography, that's not quite the case. A photo's "key" is its overall tone. The elements that play into this are the colors used in the background, and any clothing or props. A low key photo will use dark colors for a dramatic effect. But low key photos must be well lit to compensate for the dark colors.

Dramatic Light

    Because a low key shot is so dark, it is acceptable to use bright, dramatic lighting to enhance the drama.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Unlike a middle or high key shot, a low key photograph can use a lighting ratio of 3:1. This means that there are three times more light in the highlights of your subject's face than in the shadows. The contrast can enhance the curves of the face and evoke feelings of deep thought, melancholy or drama.

Subdued Light

    Because low key shots are often minimally lit to draw attention to one feature or create a subdued feeling, this kind of photography lends itself well to only using one light. A single strobe lighting scheme helps to create a muted feel within the photograph. To set up this type of photo, keep your light at a 45-degree angle to your subject. This helps to illuminate the subject without lighting up the background.

Accent Light

    Although some photographers prefer not to add accent lighting to a low key photograph, others use accent lighting to great effect. Accent lights may include "hair lights" that create the illusion of sunlight on the hair, or a "rim light" that is usually placed behind the subject to illuminate them from behind and separate them from the background.



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Saturday, May 2, 2015

How to Choose Photography Backdrops

There are many options when shopping for photography backdrops. Whether you're shooting on location and need a portable backdrop, or plan to stay in the studio, there are a variety of backdrops to fill your photography needs. From cloth to vinyl or canvas, this guide will help you choose photography backdrops for all types of shoots.

Instructions

    1

    Select collapsible backdrops for shooting on location. Collapsible, folding backdrops are easy to transport for photography on location. These backdrops fold into a circular shape and fit easily into a vehicle to be transported. Collapsible backdrops are light weight, and good for product, individual and couples shoots.

    2

    Choose vinyl backdrops for in studio shoots only. Mount the vinyl on your studio wall to create a seamless, smooth backdrop option. Vinyl backdrops are easy to clean, durable and long lasting. The long sweeping backdrops will accommodate floor poses, full length poses and close-ups. Vinyl backdrops are not easily portable.

    3

    Pick muslin fabric backdrops as a multi-purpose backdrop. Portable and great in the permanent studio, muslin fabrics are very versatile. They fold easily for transportation, or can hang on a rail system in the studio until needed. Muslins can be set-up on location with the help of a portable background stand. Purchase muslin fabrics in longer lengths to accommodate full length portraits, or in shorter lengths for waist-up portraits.

    4

    Choose canvas backdrops for a variety of poses in the studio. Hang canvas from a roller system in the studio. Use canvas backdrops for close-ups to three-quarter shots. Canvas backdrops are not long enough to shoot head to toe, since they do not sweep onto the floor. Choose canvas backdrops for business portraits and senior head-shots.

    5

    Select sheer backdrop cloths as an accent. Use them with vinyl, for a softer look on children's portraits. Choose white sheer cloth when using gels for muted pastel colors in the background of your portraits. Sheer cloth backdrops can be used in the studio or on location. They fold easily and are very light weight.


There are many options when shopping for photography backdrops. Whether you're shooting on location and need a portable backdrop, or plan to stay in the studio, there are a variety of backdrops to fill your photography needs. From cloth to vinyl or canvas, this guide will help you choose photography backdrops for all types of shoots.

Instructions

    1

    Select collapsible backdrops for shooting on location. Collapsible, folding backdrops are easy to transport for photography on location. These backdrops fold into a circular shape and fit easily into a vehicle to be transported. Collapsible backdrops are light weight, and good for product, individual and couples shoots.

    2

    Choose vinyl backdrops for in studio shoots only. Mount the vinyl on your studio wall to create a seamless, smooth backdrop option. Vinyl backdrops are easy to clean, durable and long lasting. The long sweeping backdrops will accommodate floor poses, full length poses and close-ups. Vinyl backdrops are not easily portable.

    3

    Pick muslin fabric backdrops as a multi-purpose backdrop. Portable and great in the permanent studio, muslin fabrics are very versatile. They fold easily for transportation, or can hang on a rail system in the studio until needed.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Muslins can be set-up on location with the help of a portable background stand. Purchase muslin fabrics in longer lengths to accommodate full length portraits, or in shorter lengths for waist-up portraits.

    4

    Choose canvas backdrops for a variety of poses in the studio. Hang canvas from a roller system in the studio. Use canvas backdrops for close-ups to three-quarter shots. Canvas backdrops are not long enough to shoot head to toe, since they do not sweep onto the floor. Choose canvas backdrops for business portraits and senior head-shots.

    5

    Select sheer backdrop cloths as an accent. Use them with vinyl, for a softer look on children's portraits. Choose white sheer cloth when using gels for muted pastel colors in the background of your portraits. Sheer cloth backdrops can be used in the studio or on location. They fold easily and are very light weight.



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How to Take Pictures in RAW Format

High-end digital cameras, or dSLR cameras, come with an option to shoot pictures in RAW format. In essence, RAW files are like exposed, unprocessed negatives from a film camera. Because your camera only minimally processes the photos, the resulting storage size is greater than JPEG files. Taking pictures in RAW format allows you to have more control over your pictures contrast, sharpness and white balance.

Instructions

    1

    Turn your camera on. Make sure you have a high speed memory card. RAW files are larger and take more time for your camera to write to memory than shooting in JPEG format.

    2

    Select "Settings" from the menu options and scroll to "Image Quality."

    3

    Select RAW format. Most dSLR cameras have several image size options ranging from small to large files and also have a RAW format option. Newer dSLR cameras usually have a RAW + JPEG option so you can store both the minimally processed and JPEG file format.

    4

    Take pictures as you normally would. You may notice your camera takes a little longer to process each photo because of the file size.

    5

    Review your pictures on camera and delete photos you know you don't want to save to help conserve memory.

    6

    Upload the images to your computer and begin post-processing. Your camera doesn't apply any presets such as contrast, white balance or sharpness to RAW files, so plan to work with the photo to get it where you want it. One popular software option available to help you process your RAW files is Adobe Photoshop.

    7

    Save all of your photos and backup as needed. Remember to reformat your memory so your card is clear to take more photos in RAW format.


High-end digital cameras, or dSLR cameras, come with an option to shoot pictures in RAW format. In essence, RAW files are like exposed, unprocessed negatives from a film camera. Because your camera only minimally processes the photos, the resulting storage size is greater than JPEG files. Taking pictures in RAW format allows you to have more control over your pictures contrast, sharpness and white balance.

Instructions

    1

    Turn your camera on. Make sure you have a high speed memory card. RAW files are larger and take more time for your camera to write to memory than shooting in JPEG format.

    2

    Select "Settings" from the menu options and scroll to "Image Quality."

    3

    Select RAW format. Most dSLR cameras have several image size options ranging from small to large files and also have a RAW format option. Newer dSLR cameras usually have a RAW + JPEG option so you can store both the minimally processed and JPEG file format.

    4

    Take pictures as you normally would.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . You may notice your camera takes a little longer to process each photo because of the file size.

    5

    Review your pictures on camera and delete photos you know you don't want to save to help conserve memory.

    6

    Upload the images to your computer and begin post-processing. Your camera doesn't apply any presets such as contrast, white balance or sharpness to RAW files, so plan to work with the photo to get it where you want it. One popular software option available to help you process your RAW files is Adobe Photoshop.

    7

    Save all of your photos and backup as needed. Remember to reformat your memory so your card is clear to take more photos in RAW format.



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Friday, May 1, 2015

Using Cheap Lighting for Photography

Using Cheap Lighting for Photography

Studio photographers are known for their use of lighting, whether the person viewing the photos know it or not. The reason is that they use a variety of expensive, brilliant lighting units and know how to place them. Yet thanks largely to the computer and Adobe Photoshop, there are many ways to make good photos without spending a lot on lighting.

Function

    Photography is all about lighting. From the first cameras that only could shoot in bright sunlight to the explosive magnesium powder of the first flash units to today's high-tech strobes, lighting is what makes the photo. Too much light washes things out; too little and the image is hard to see. Most modern consumer cameras have overcome this problem close up by using built-in or "fill" flash.

Types

    A good set of studio lights for photography will be expensive. These are great, but if you are not a pro who needs this to make a lot of money, the cost is not worth it. So what is in all of these set-ups? Well, lights, of course--but also diffusion screens, light stands and slave units for multiple flash units. Most of this can be done simply and economically.

Considerations

    You need white light for most photos. Fluorescent lights tend to give a sickly green look to photos, and regular light bulbs make a dark orange glow. While these can be used for special effects, most people don't want portraits of their kids taken in lighting that makes them look ill. White light, such as from color-corrected halogen bulbs or LEDs, gives clean, crisp images. These can be purchased at department or hardware stores inexpensively. There are stand-alone units and lights with reflectors that attach to anything with clamps. For a basic set-up, about four will do. Two will be used to either side of the camera, while the other two will be behind the subject but not in the shot.

Effects

    To get a softer look, photographers use diffusers. These can either be placed on their camera or slave flash units, or bigger ones can be used across studio lighting. The same can be done with cheaper lighting. Nearly any white translucent fabric will do. It needs to be relatively thin to allow the lighting through, but not so thin that it allows harsh light to get through. This can be attached with tape or hung in front of the lights. Be careful not to have the material touch the lights, because especially with halogen, the heat could be a fire hazard.

Geography

    The cheapest lighting, of course, is natural light. While it cannot be controlled, it can be used wisely. Sunlight is best if filtered through clouds because the clouds act as diffusers. When shooting in bright sunlight, make sure the sun is to one side of both you and the subject. If it's behind the photographer, it will cause glare on the subject. If it's behind the subject, it will throw off the exposure.

Considerations

    You can use indoor light, too. Most digital cameras have light sensitivity settings that can be adjusted, just like with film types, for the light available. If it's a dark room, use a higher sensitivity. Move the lighting to make the best photo. If your subject is a family sitting on a couch, try to have a ceiling light on and/or lights of equal brightness on either end of the couch. A photo manipulation program such as Adobe Photoshop or Photoshop Elements will allow you to make color, brightness and other corrections later, but only to a certain point. A really dark scene can be punched up, but it will lose quality and tend to be filled with "noise" that is hard to get rid of in software.


Using Cheap Lighting for Photography

Studio photographers are known for their use of lighting, whether the person viewing the photos know it or not. The reason is that they use a variety of expensive, brilliant lighting units and know how to place them. Yet thanks largely to the computer and Adobe Photoshop, there are many ways to make good photos without spending a lot on lighting.

Function

    Photography is all about lighting. From the first cameras that only could shoot in bright sunlight to the explosive magnesium powder of the first flash units to today's high-tech strobes, lighting is what makes the photo. Too much light washes things out; too little and the image is hard to see. Most modern consumer cameras have overcome this problem close up by using built-in or "fill" flash.

Types

    A good set of studio lights for photography will be expensive. These are great, but if you are not a pro who needs this to make a lot of money, the cost is not worth it. So what is in all of these set-ups? Well, lights, of course--but also diffusion screens, light stands and slave units for multiple flash units. Most of this can be done simply and economically.

Considerations

    You need white light for most photos. Fluorescent lights tend to give a sickly green look to photos, and regular light bulbs make a dark orange glow. While these can be used for special effects, most people don't want portraits of their kids taken in lighting that makes them look ill. White light, such as from color-corrected halogen bulbs or LEDs, gives clean, crisp images. These can be purchased at department or hardware stores inexpensively. There are stand-alone units and lights with reflectors that attach to anything with clamps. For a basic set-up, about four will do. Two will be used to either side of the camera, while the other two will be behind the subject but not in the shot.

Effects

    To get a softer look, photographers use diffusers. These can either be placed on their camera or slave flash units, or bigger ones can be used across studio lighting. The same can be done with cheaper lighting. Nearly any white translucent fabric will do. It needs to be relatively thin to allow the lighting through, but not so thin that it allows harsh light to get through. This can be attached with tape or hung in front of the lights. Be careful not to have the material touch the lights, because especially with halogen, the heat could be a fire hazard.

Geography

    The cheapest lighting, of course, is natural light. While it cannot be controlled, it can be used wisely. Sunlight is best if filtered through clouds because the clouds act as diffusers. When shooting in bright sunlight, make sure the sun is to one side of both you and the subject. If it's behind the photographer, it will cause glare on the subject.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . If it's behind the subject, it will throw off the exposure.

Considerations

    You can use indoor light, too. Most digital cameras have light sensitivity settings that can be adjusted, just like with film types, for the light available. If it's a dark room, use a higher sensitivity. Move the lighting to make the best photo. If your subject is a family sitting on a couch, try to have a ceiling light on and/or lights of equal brightness on either end of the couch. A photo manipulation program such as Adobe Photoshop or Photoshop Elements will allow you to make color, brightness and other corrections later, but only to a certain point. A really dark scene can be punched up, but it will lose quality and tend to be filled with "noise" that is hard to get rid of in software.



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  • DIYPhotography.net Hacking Photography For The Love of It

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    One of the ways to increase the time a strobe or a camera can run for a longer durations, is to use an external battery for power. Some cameras and strobes have a ...


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Stroboscopic Techniques

Stroboscope photography is a technique used to express motion whereby a moving subject against a dark background is lit by flashes of light, often by a strobe light. The camera shutter, the curtain or set of metal blades that determines how long light exposes the film or digital sensor, remains open during this time, creating a series of movements by the subject in a single photograph.

Moving the Camera during Exposure

    During exposure, the camera moves parallel to the subject while he stays in one place performing some form of stationary movement. Each of his individual movements are recorded across the entire length of the camera frame, even though he has not physically moved across the frame. For example, a baseball player stays mostly stationary as he swings the bat. By moving the camera during exposure, the photographer can capture each individual movement of the ball player's swing on a single frame.

Moving the Subject during Exposure

    The subject can also move across the frame to accomplish the stroboscopic effect. During the long exposure, the camera stays stationary while the subject moves from one edge of the frame to the other. For example, a ballet dancer may perform a series of dance steps while moving parallel to the camera. As the strobe lights fire, each of her movements are individually recorded on a single frame.

Moving the Film in a Camera

    This technique is specifically for film cameras. Place your lens cap on your lens. Fire your camera as if you're taking a photograph, until your roll of film is all "exposed." Your subject and camera will stay stationary, however, during the exposure, you will rewind your film back into its canister thereby exposing the film. This is similar to how a motion picture camera works. Be careful when you rewind your film during the exposure as "some cameras do not allow rewinding the film while the shutter is locked in the open position," says Rochester Institute of Technology Professor Andrew Davidhazy. You will also need to inform whoever develops your film not to cut your into strips, as this will ruin the stroboscopic effect.


Stroboscope photography is a technique used to express motion whereby a moving subject against a dark background is lit by flashes of light, often by a strobe light. The camera shutter, the curtain or set of metal blades that determines how long light exposes the film or digital sensor, remains open during this time, creating a series of movements by the subject in a single photograph.

Moving the Camera during Exposure

    During exposure, the camera moves parallel to the subject while he stays in one place performing some form of stationary movement. Each of his individual movements are recorded across the entire length of the camera frame, even though he has not physically moved across the frame. For example, a baseball player stays mostly stationary as he swings the bat. By moving the camera during exposure, the photographer can capture each individual movement of the ball player's swing on a single frame.

Moving the Subject during Exposure

    The subject can also move across the frame to accomplish the stroboscopic effect. During the long exposure, the camera stays stationary while the subject moves from one edge of the frame to the other. For example, a ballet dancer may perform a series of dance steps while moving parallel to the camera. As the strobe lights fire, each of her movements are individually recorded on a single frame.

Moving the Film in a Camera

    This technique is specifically for film cameras. Place your lens cap on your lens. Fire your camera as if you're taking a photograph, until your roll of film is all "exposed." Your subject and camera will stay stationary, however, during the exposure, you will rewind your film back into its canister thereby exposing the film. This is similar to how a motion picture camera works. Be careful when you rewind your film during the exposure as "some cameras do not allow rewinding the film while the shutter is locked in the open position," says Rochester Institute of Technology Professor Andrew Davidhazy. You will also need to inform whoever develops your film not to cut your into strips, as this will ruin the stroboscopic effect.



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