Tuesday, May 29, 2018

How to Measure the Intensity of Light Using a Light Meter

How to Measure the Intensity of Light Using a Light Meter

Photography and film both deem it necessary to get the proper amount of lighting. A device called a "Footcandle Meter", commonly referred to as a "Light Meter" can be used to measure the "footcandle" or "lux", the "lumens" and the "candlepower" of a light source. With the knowledge of these key lighting elements, you can adjust your lighting, flash and camera aperture for optimal camera exposure depending whether the subject is predominantly light or dark. Using a light meter can be done with little difficulty.

Instructions

    1

    Set up the area to be illuminated. Create a controlled environment for your light, so you can control the amount of light that gets into your area. External light from sunlight or windows can vary, resulting in unbalanced results. Utilizing your own light sources will ensure that you are in control of how the results turn out.

    2

    Measure for incident light. Any light that falls on the object directly from the light source is "incident" light. Hold the meter in the path of light as close to the subject as possible and measure the distance from the light source. With too much incident lighting, a light subject can easily over saturate a scene, and too little incident light on a dark subject will not show up properly and recess into the background. Most meters will have an option to switch between incident or "spot" lighting and "reflected lighting," and will have an ideal lighting range on the meter.

    3

    Measure for reflected light. This refers to any external light that illuminates an object indirectly. Using the meter as close to the desired subject as possible will give you an accurate reading of both how illuminated a subject is and how light-reflective the subject is. Backdrops with similar color schemes to that of the subject will drown out the subject in too much or too little reflected lighting.


How to Measure the Intensity of Light Using a Light Meter

Photography and film both deem it necessary to get the proper amount of lighting. A device called a "Footcandle Meter", commonly referred to as a "Light Meter" can be used to measure the "footcandle" or "lux", the "lumens" and the "candlepower" of a light source. With the knowledge of these key lighting elements, you can adjust your lighting, flash and camera aperture for optimal camera exposure depending whether the subject is predominantly light or dark. Using a light meter can be done with little difficulty.

Instructions

    1

    Set up the area to be illuminated. Create a controlled environment for your light, so you can control the amount of light that gets into your area. External light from sunlight or windows can vary, resulting in unbalanced results. Utilizing your own light sources will ensure that you are in control of how the results turn out.

    2

    Measure for incident light. Any light that falls on the object directly from the light source is "incident" light. Hold the meter in the path of light as close to the subject as possible and measure the distance from the light source. With too much incident lighting, a light subject can easily over saturate a scene, and too little incident light on a dark subject will not show up properly and recess into the background. Most meters will have an option to switch between incident or "spot" lighting and "reflected lighting," and will have an ideal lighting range on the meter.

    3

    Measure for reflected light. This refers to any external light that illuminates an object indirectly. Using the meter as close to the desired subject as possible will give you an accurate reading of both how illuminated a subject is and how light-reflective the subject is. Backdrops with similar color schemes to that of the subject will drown out the subject in too much or too little reflected lighting.



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Monday, May 28, 2018

What Is Dot Gain in Photography?

Dot gain can make photos look darker, muddier and not exactly the way you intend them to look when printed. It is not a function of the original photo---digital or film---or of the image-processing software you use, or even the screen on which you work. It is the result of the combination of the printer and the paper used.

The Phenomenon

    Dot gain, essentially, is a phenomenon caused when ink from a printer hits the surface of the paper and sinks in. What happens is that the ink seeps into the paper and expands slightly. This causes the tiny dots that make up the finished photo print to get bigger and darker.

Types

    This bleeding of ink is especially noticeable in screened images, those associated mostly with high-volume printing, such as in newspapers or magazines. In order to reproduce photos in a press run, each photo must be reduced to a series of dots of varying sizes for each color printed, cyan, magenta, yellow and black. This is called screening or half-toning. If you look at an image in a newspaper with a magnifying glass, you will see the dots.

Quality Counts

    Dot gain varies depending upon the type paper used for printing. For example, newsprint, the paper newspapers are printed upon, is low-grade paper that "bleeds" ink across its surface. This is why newspaper images, especially black and white photos, can appear very dark even if that is not how they were toned in the newsroom. Better paper, especially coated or glossy paper, such as in magazines, does not allow the ink to spread much.

Solution

    One fix for the dot gain problem is to tone photos lighter than you normally would. If you are printing to card stock or regular non-photo paper, bring the mid-tones up a notch or two and lighten the lights a bit. The photo may look a little washed out on the screen, but when printed to un-coated paper, it will darken. This takes a little experimentation to get the right balance.

Benefits

    Some photos could benefit from dot gain. A washed-out photo that can't be toned darker without losing detail, for example, will gain both a darker tone and some depth wherever there are textures. While it is best to tone photos before printing, dot gain can help to fill them out a little.


Dot gain can make photos look darker, muddier and not exactly the way you intend them to look when printed. It is not a function of the original photo---digital or film---or of the image-processing software you use, or even the screen on which you work. It is the result of the combination of the printer and the paper used.

The Phenomenon

    Dot gain, essentially, is a phenomenon caused when ink from a printer hits the surface of the paper and sinks in. What happens is that the ink seeps into the paper and expands slightly. This causes the tiny dots that make up the finished photo print to get bigger and darker.

Types

    This bleeding of ink is especially noticeable in screened images, those associated mostly with high-volume printing, such as in newspapers or magazines. In order to reproduce photos in a press run, each photo must be reduced to a series of dots of varying sizes for each color printed, cyan, magenta, yellow and black. This is called screening or half-toning. If you look at an image in a newspaper with a magnifying glass, you will see the dots.

Quality Counts

    Dot gain varies depending upon the type paper used for printing. For example, newsprint, the paper newspapers are printed upon, is low-grade paper that "bleeds" ink across its surface. This is why newspaper images, especially black and white photos, can appear very dark even if that is not how they were toned in the newsroom.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . Better paper, especially coated or glossy paper, such as in magazines, does not allow the ink to spread much.

Solution

    One fix for the dot gain problem is to tone photos lighter than you normally would. If you are printing to card stock or regular non-photo paper, bring the mid-tones up a notch or two and lighten the lights a bit. The photo may look a little washed out on the screen, but when printed to un-coated paper, it will darken. This takes a little experimentation to get the right balance.

Benefits

    Some photos could benefit from dot gain. A washed-out photo that can't be toned darker without losing detail, for example, will gain both a darker tone and some depth wherever there are textures. While it is best to tone photos before printing, dot gain can help to fill them out a little.



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Wide Angle Vs. Fisheye Lens

Wide Angle Vs. Fisheye Lens


Wide Angle Vs. Fisheye LensThe Top Secret Photography Techniques. Fisheye Lens" />



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How to Scan 35MM Negatives

How to Scan 35MM Negatives

You switched to a digital camera years ago but there are boxes of old 35MM film negatives stored away from decades of film shoots. Transferring these images to your computer for archiving or editing is easy once you have the right equipment. You can even print images from the scanned copy with good results.

Instructions

    1

    Choose the right scanner. The reason many attempts to scan negatives fail is because a regular flatbed scanner doesnt create the intensity of light necessary to penetrate the negative and copy the details. A film scanner records the image with a much higher DPI (dots per inch) resolution, resulting in a high quality rendition of your negative.

    2

    Connect the scanner to your computer using the manufacturer's software. You will be creating some big files when scanning negatives and your computer may run slowly when transferring the images.

    3

    Scan a strip of negatives and open up the images on your screen. Your scanner allows you to choose different resolutions during the scan process and now is the time to adjust those settings. If you want to print large pictures from the negatives, youll need to use a high DPI scanning resolution. A mid-range resolution is fine for archiving smaller images.

    4

    Consider scanning directly to a high-storage removable drive. Since graphic images take up large amounts of memory, a removable drive allows you to store the images in one place without using up your entire computers storage space.

    5

    Feed old or curled negatives very carefully into the film scanner. Film scanners use a mechanism to pull the strip through the scanner and it flattens out as it goes. In rare cases, a curled negative may crack or break. If you cant flatten out the strip easily with your hand, dont put it in the scanner. Take those strips to a professional who can soften them before scanning.

    6

    Label your images as you go. After each strip is scanned and loaded, you will have the option of giving it a name. A quick descriptive word or two will make it easier to locate the images later when your removable drive contains a few hundred photos.

    7

    Use a graphics program to restore the original color of the images. Negatives can fade after years of storage but most graphics programs allow you to adjust the hue, saturation and contrast to bring the photo back to life.


How to Scan 35MM Negatives

You switched to a digital camera years ago but there are boxes of old 35MM film negatives stored away from decades of film shoots. Transferring these images to your computer for archiving or editing is easy once you have the right equipment. You can even print images from the scanned copy with good results.

Instructions

    1

    Choose the right scanner. The reason many attempts to scan negatives fail is because a regular flatbed scanner doesnt create the intensity of light necessary to penetrate the negative and copy the details.

    Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

    . A film scanner records the image with a much higher DPI (dots per inch) resolution, resulting in a high quality rendition of your negative.

    2

    Connect the scanner to your computer using the manufacturer's software. You will be creating some big files when scanning negatives and your computer may run slowly when transferring the images.

    3

    Scan a strip of negatives and open up the images on your screen. Your scanner allows you to choose different resolutions during the scan process and now is the time to adjust those settings. If you want to print large pictures from the negatives, youll need to use a high DPI scanning resolution. A mid-range resolution is fine for archiving smaller images.

    4

    Consider scanning directly to a high-storage removable drive. Since graphic images take up large amounts of memory, a removable drive allows you to store the images in one place without using up your entire computers storage space.

    5

    Feed old or curled negatives very carefully into the film scanner. Film scanners use a mechanism to pull the strip through the scanner and it flattens out as it goes. In rare cases, a curled negative may crack or break. If you cant flatten out the strip easily with your hand, dont put it in the scanner. Take those strips to a professional who can soften them before scanning.

    6

    Label your images as you go. After each strip is scanned and loaded, you will have the option of giving it a name. A quick descriptive word or two will make it easier to locate the images later when your removable drive contains a few hundred photos.

    7

    Use a graphics program to restore the original color of the images. Negatives can fade after years of storage but most graphics programs allow you to adjust the hue, saturation and contrast to bring the photo back to life.



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