Tuesday, July 31, 2018

How Make Different Types of Studio Lights

How Make Different Types of Studio Lights

Although photography and film are two completely different mediums of live action art, they both share similar techniques to achieve certain end results. Studio lighting can drastically change the look and shading of your photograph or video, but too much or too little of this vital tool can greatly hinder the quality of your finished product. Use a tin can assembly with a reflective surface to help set the mood for your project. Covering your tin can with colored film offers a different perspective in the studio.

Instructions

Tin Can

    1

    Drill a hole in the bottom of the tin can large enough to thread the light bulb assembly. A tin can offers a shaded appearance when the light bulb is in use, similar to a lamp shade or similar design.

    2

    Twist a nut to the the end of the light bulb assembly with pliers until it fits securely into the hole of the can. The end that holds the light bulb should be inside the tin can.

    3

    Bend the hangar assembly around a block of wood or relatively-shaped object. The hangar should form a three-sided square to hold the tin can light at an appropriate level for studio work.

    4

    Drill holes on each side of the tin can to hold the hangar assembly arms to the outside of this object. Screw in the necessary screws so that the hangar assembly fits snug against the frame of the tin can.

    5

    Strip each of the connecting wires until about 3/4 to 1 inch of copper wire is exposed. Attach wire nuts to each of the newly-exposed wires to hold these pieces together. Wrap electrical tape around each of the wire nuts once they have been attached.

    6

    Attach the power supply socket to the end of the light bulb assembly kit you previously attached to the tin can. Check that the power plug is assembled correctly if the cable did not come with one already put together.

    7

    Screw in an appropriately rated bulb that is made for the specific assembly kit you used. Turn on this light bulb to ensure everything is working.

Colored Lights

    8

    Cut pieces of colored film into circular shapes that are larger than the tin can or related object you are using with the light bulb. Colored light bulbs can be expensive and limit you to one color while replacing color film strips is cheap and interchangeable.

    9

    Place the colored film strip over the opening of the light bulb fixture until all has been covered. Fold the excess film flaps over the sides of the light bulb fixture.

    10

    Tape the sides to secure the colored film to the light fixture. Do not use an adhesive such as glue because you want to be able to easily change out these colored films. A rubber band also works well with holding the film to the fixture.

    11

    Turn your light on to test out the quality of the film on the light bulb. If you are unsatisfied with the color, change the film or add another layer.

    12

    Cut out several pieces of film so that you can always have a few choices to quickly choose from when using your studio light.


How Make Different Types of Studio Lights

Although photography and film are two completely different mediums of live action art, they both share similar techniques to achieve certain end results. Studio lighting can drastically change the look and shading of your photograph or video, but too much or too little of this vital tool can greatly hinder the quality of your finished product. Use a tin can assembly with a reflective surface to help set the mood for your project. Covering your tin can with colored film offers a different perspective in the studio.

Instructions

Tin Can

    1

    Drill a hole in the bottom of the tin can large enough to thread the light bulb assembly. A tin can offers a shaded appearance when the light bulb is in use, similar to a lamp shade or similar design.

    2

    Twist a nut to the the end of the light bulb assembly with pliers until it fits securely into the hole of the can. The end that holds the light bulb should be inside the tin can.

    3

    Bend the hangar assembly around a block of wood or relatively-shaped object. The hangar should form a three-sided square to hold the tin can light at an appropriate level for studio work.

    4

    Drill holes on each side of the tin can to hold the hangar assembly arms to the outside of this object. Screw in the necessary screws so that the hangar assembly fits snug against the frame of the tin can.

    5

    Strip each of the connecting wires until about 3/4 to 1 inch of copper wire is exposed. Attach wire nuts to each of the newly-exposed wires to hold these pieces together. Wrap electrical tape around each of the wire nuts once they have been attached.

    6

    Attach the power supply socket to the end of the light bulb assembly kit you previously attached to the tin can. Check that the power plug is assembled correctly if the cable did not come with one already put together.

    7

    Screw in an appropriately rated bulb that is made for the specific assembly kit you used. Turn on this light bulb to ensure everything is working.

Colored Lights

    8

    Cut pieces of colored film into circular shapes that are larger than the tin can or related object you are using with the light bulb. Colored light bulbs can be expensive and limit you to one color while replacing color film strips is cheap and interchangeable.

    9

    Place the colored film strip over the opening of the light bulb fixture until all has been covered. Fold the excess film flaps over the sides of the light bulb fixture.

    10

    Tape the sides to secure the colored film to the light fixture. Do not use an adhesive such as glue because you want to be able to easily change out these colored films. A rubber band also works well with holding the film to the fixture.

    11

    Turn your light on to test out the quality of the film on the light bulb. If you are unsatisfied with the color, change the film or add another layer.

    12

    Cut out several pieces of film so that you can always have a few choices to quickly choose from when using your studio light.



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How to Make Headshot Sheets

How to Make Headshot Sheets

A headshot sheet is a perfect way to get your name out in the world of modeling and acting. For years inspirinng actors have submitted their photos to casting agencies all over the world in order to obtain a career. When creating a headshot sheet, it is very important not to cram too many photographs or too much information onto one page as this can distract the agent from recognizing your true appearance.

Instructions

    1

    Draw a rough sketch of the sheet layout. Determine whether you want a large 8 1/2-by-11-inch headshot sheet or a smaller 3-by-5-inch sheet. Once you decide on size, determine whether you want one or two photos. The decision is up to you, but sometimes less is more.

    2

    Select one to two photos for your headshot sheet. These photos should be similar in color and layout. Try to avoid selecting a horizontal and vertical photo to be placed side by side. Also avoid selecting one colored and one black and white photo for one sheet.

    3

    Place the photo in the layout. Avoid cropping photos to different shapes as this can show as unprofessional. If the photo is a vertical 3-by-5-inch photograph, do not crop the photo so that it can be placed horizontally.

    4

    Create an image canvas in the size you chose for your sheet. If you select only one photo for your headshot sheet, fill the entire canvas with the image. For two images, place them side by side with both images the same size.

    5

    Write your information on the photograph as far away from your face as possible. Names are generally placed running vertically along the edge of the image or horizontally along the top or bottom. Print your name either in white, grey or black, depending on the photo's colors. Colored names are very unattractive and distracting from the photograph.

    6

    Print your headshot sheet with high-gloss photo paper. Print photo with maximum DPI for the highest quality.


How to Make Headshot Sheets

A headshot sheet is a perfect way to get your name out in the world of modeling and acting. For years inspirinng actors have submitted their photos to casting agencies all over the world in order to obtain a career. When creating a headshot sheet, it is very important not to cram too many photographs or too much information onto one page as this can distract the agent from recognizing your true appearance.

Instructions

    1

    Draw a rough sketch of the sheet layout. Determine whether you want a large 8 1/2-by-11-inch headshot sheet or a smaller 3-by-5-inch sheet. Once you decide on size, determine whether you want one or two photos. The decision is up to you, but sometimes less is more.

    2

    Select one to two photos for your headshot sheet. These photos should be similar in color and layout. Try to avoid selecting a horizontal and vertical photo to be placed side by side. Also avoid selecting one colored and one black and white photo for one sheet.

    3

    Place the photo in the layout. Avoid cropping photos to different shapes as this can show as unprofessional. If the photo is a vertical 3-by-5-inch photograph, do not crop the photo so that it can be placed horizontally.

    4

    Create an image canvas in the size you chose for your sheet. If you select only one photo for your headshot sheet, fill the entire canvas with the image. For two images, place them side by side with both images the same size.

    5

    Write your information on the photograph as far away from your face as possible. Names are generally placed running vertically along the edge of the image or horizontally along the top or bottom. Print your name either in white, grey or black, depending on the photo's colors. Colored names are very unattractive and distracting from the photograph.

    6

    Print your headshot sheet with high-gloss photo paper. Print photo with maximum DPI for the highest quality.



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Monday, July 30, 2018

How to Use Your Own Photo Return Address Labels

How to Use Your Own Photo Return Address Labels

Making photo return address labels is easy with the use of software like MS Digital Image Suite. There are numerous businesses that will produce custom return address labels on your behalf, including web-based companies such as My Own Labels. Whether you will be producing your own labels or using a paid service, you will need to save your image as a digital file. If you use a digital camera, upload your photos as normal; otherwise, scan your hard copies and save as .jpg or .png files.

Instructions

    1

    Open MS Digital Image Suite. Click "Start" and select the program by name from the list of "All Programs."

    2

    Select "Create A Project" from the file menu.

    3

    Press "Labels/Stickers" and then "Address Labels." Select and click on a theme from the displayed design options.

    4

    Click the "Open A Picture" button in the left pane menu.

    5

    Navigate to your image file in the "Browse Folder" window. Highlight the image and press "OK" to insert it.

    6

    Type your return address on the label where it says "Name," "Address 1," "Address 2."

    7

    Hold "Ctrl" and "S" to open the "Save" dialogue. Save the project, naming it appropriately. (e.g., "labels with cat pic")

    8

    Open the "File" menu and then click "Print."

    9

    Select your printer in the left menu. Choose the label layout that corresponds with the label sheets you are using. Consult the label packet to find the label style number. Press "Next."

    10

    Check the boxes next to "Scale to Fit" and "Fill With The Selected Picture." Continue by pressing "Next."

    11

    Enter the number of copies to print. Insert label sheets into your printer. Be sure the labels are inserted correctly following the directions on the printer; otherwise you may print on the wrong side of the sheet.

    12

    Print the labels. Wait for the ink to dry completely.

    13

    Select the return label you wish to use. Avoid using personal photographs on business mail to maintain the professionalism of your correspondence.

    14

    Remove the label from the paper backing, revealing the self-adhesive surface.

    15

    Place the label in the upper left hand corner of the envelope or package.

    16

    Protect the label with a strip of clear packing tape if you believe the item may be exposed to excess moisture or rough handling.


How to Use Your Own Photo Return Address Labels

Making photo return address labels is easy with the use of software like MS Digital Image Suite. There are numerous businesses that will produce custom return address labels on your behalf, including web-based companies such as My Own Labels. Whether you will be producing your own labels or using a paid service, you will need to save your image as a digital file. If you use a digital camera, upload your photos as normal; otherwise, scan your hard copies and save as .jpg or .png files.

Instructions

    1

    Open MS Digital Image Suite. Click "Start" and select the program by name from the list of "All Programs."

    2

    Select "Create A Project" from the file menu.

    3

    Press "Labels/Stickers" and then "Address Labels." Select and click on a theme from the displayed design options.

    4

    Click the "Open A Picture" button in the left pane menu.

    5

    Navigate to your image file in the "Browse Folder" window. Highlight the image and press "OK" to insert it.

    6

    Type your return address on the label where it says "Name," "Address 1," "Address 2."

    7

    Hold "Ctrl" and "S" to open the "Save" dialogue. Save the project, naming it appropriately. (e.g., "labels with cat pic")

    8

    Open the "File" menu and then click "Print."

    9

    Select your printer in the left menu. Choose the label layout that corresponds with the label sheets you are using. Consult the label packet to find the label style number. Press "Next."

    10

    Check the boxes next to "Scale to Fit" and "Fill With The Selected Picture." Continue by pressing "Next."

    11

    Enter the number of copies to print. Insert label sheets into your printer. Be sure the labels are inserted correctly following the directions on the printer; otherwise you may print on the wrong side of the sheet.

    12

    Print the labels. Wait for the ink to dry completely.

    13

    Select the return label you wish to use. Avoid using personal photographs on business mail to maintain the professionalism of your correspondence.

    14

    Remove the label from the paper backing, revealing the self-adhesive surface.

    15

    Place the label in the upper left hand corner of the envelope or package.

    16

    Protect the label with a strip of clear packing tape if you believe the item may be exposed to excess moisture or rough handling.


    Saturday, July 28, 2018

    Starting a Photography Business in California

    Starting a Photography Business in California

    Starting a photography business in California can be challenging as it is a very competitive market. With determination, talent and commitment, you can become successful at the endeavor. Stay organized, practice your shooting skills and decide whether you would like to grow your business from engagements and weddings, children, sports or another area of photography. After you have a specific goal, work to start your dream business.

    Instructions

    California Photography Business

      1

      Offer to do some free shoots for friends, family, and via an Internet website such as Craigslist.org to build your portfolio. Word of mouth is the best way to drum up business.

      2

      Register your business by following the steps on the California government business site, which can be found in the resources of this article. This is a small business guide, which pertains to photography businesses just starting out in California.

      3

      Join the Professional Photographers of California group to network, advertise and promote. It includes a directory to list your business where potential clients will find you.

      4

      Browse the websites of other California photographers to compare and create a competitive price structure for your region of the state. Your price guide should include all your services as well as price per hour or a flat fee for the day, any extra charges for special outings, and a fee for instant printable photos. Remember to include in the start-up costs of your business that you will need to purchase a color inkjet printer and high-quality thick glossy or pearl finish paper.

      5

      Create business cards, flyers, postcards, and distribute them. Post free ads under the California city of your choice on Craigslist. You also may want to contact bridal fairs such as the Southern California BrideWorld Expo to see if you can reserve a booth to display photography samples and advertise your business. For Northern California fairs, go to Modern Bridal for upcoming listings.


    Starting a Photography Business in California

    Starting a photography business in California can be challenging as it is a very competitive market. With determination, talent and commitment, you can become successful at the endeavor. Stay organized, practice your shooting skills and decide whether you would like to grow your business from engagements and weddings, children, sports or another area of photography. After you have a specific goal, work to start your dream business.

    Instructions

    California Photography Business

      1

      Offer to do some free shoots for friends, family, and via an Internet website such as Craigslist.org to build your portfolio. Word of mouth is the best way to drum up business.

      2

      Register your business by following the steps on the California government business site, which can be found in the resources of this article. This is a small business guide, which pertains to photography businesses just starting out in California.

      3

      Join the Professional Photographers of California group to network, advertise and promote. It includes a directory to list your business where potential clients will find you.

      4

      Browse the websites of other California photographers to compare and create a competitive price structure for your region of the state. Your price guide should include all your services as well as price per hour or a flat fee for the day, any extra charges for special outings, and a fee for instant printable photos. Remember to include in the start-up costs of your business that you will need to purchase a color inkjet printer and high-quality thick glossy or pearl finish paper.

      5

      Create business cards, flyers, postcards, and distribute them. Post free ads under the California city of your choice on Craigslist. You also may want to contact bridal fairs such as the Southern California BrideWorld Expo to see if you can reserve a booth to display photography samples and advertise your business. For Northern California fairs, go to Modern Bridal for upcoming listings.



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    Steps for Developing a Photograph

    Steps for Developing a Photograph

    Developing photographs at home is labor-intensive and requires specialized equipment and chemicals, yet handmade photographs convey craft and satisfaction that is hard to duplicate in the digital world. Although color developing requires more precise control over time and temperature, black-and-white processes are flexible and forgiving.

    Instructions

    Developing Film

      1

      Load the film developer spool in complete darkness. Place the spool into the film developer tank and attach the lid. A lightproof cap on the lid allows pouring chemicals in and out. All steps remaining in film development can be performed with lights on.

      2

      Mix film developer, stop bath and film fixer according to the manufacturers' instructions, in the amounts required by the tank. These chemicals are packaged with charts for common film and various time/temperature combinations. Follow instructions carefully and use current room temperature to mix the chemicals and to determine how long to develop your film. Set your timer.

      3

      Pour the film developer into the tank and start the timer. With the tank on a slight angle, tap it sharply several times to dislodge any air bubbles on the film. For five seconds out of every 30 seconds, swirl the tank gently to keep fresh developer in contact with the film.

      4

      Pour the developer out of the tank with 10 seconds left in developing. Immediately add stop bath, tapping the tank again when full. Swirl the tank throughout the brief stop bath cycle. This solution halts the action of the developer on the film.

      5

      Reset the timer, and add film fixer to the tank. Fixing time is not as critical as developer time. Tap the tank and swirl for five seconds out of every 30 seconds.

      At the completion of the fixing cycle, empty the tank and remove the lid. The film is light-safe now. Set the tank under running water of about room temperature. Instructions with the fixer will advise how long to wash the film. Consider these times as minimums for longest film life. Then hang the film to dry.

    Developing Prints

      6

      Mix enough paper developer, stop bath and paper fixer, according to manufacturers' instructions, for the developing trays. Choose the time based on current room temperature. Fill the trays with the chemicals, left to right: developer trap, stop bath tray, fixer tray, and tray of clean water. Turn out room lights and turn on the safelight. Black-and-white photographic paper is not sensitive to red light.

      7
      The enlarger projects light through a negative and focuses it for printing.
      The enlarger projects light through a negative and focuses it for printing.

      Load a negative into the enlarger. Turn on the enlarger, and focus and compose the image on the printing easel with the enlarger lens wide open. Set the lens to a medium setting such as f5.6 or f8 to print. Use one quarter sheet of 8-inch-by-10-inch paper for a test. The emulsion side of the paper, which feels sticky to a wet finger, is where the image forms.

      8

      Place the test strip on the easel, emulsion side up, in an area of the image that has average exposure. Set the timer for 10 seconds and cover 3/4 of the test strip with a heavy card. Expose the test strip for 10 seconds. Move the card carefully (do not move the test strip) to reveal an additional 1/4 of the strip. Expose for another 10 seconds. Move the card again, so that 3/4 of the strip is revealed for a third 10-second exposure. Remove the card completely and expose for 10 seconds.

      9

      Develop the test strip, Reset the timer for the recommended time, start the timer, and place the test strip emulsion side down in the developer tray. Lift a corner of the tray slightly and lower it to cover the test strip with developer. Continue to gently agitate the tray to supply fresh developer. After about 10 seconds, turn the test strip over and immerse it again in developer. The image will appear on the strip. At the end of developing time, transfer the strip to the stop bath.

      10

      Agitate the stop bath tray to complete developing action. Transfer the test strip to the fixer tray and again agitate the tray. Transfer the strip to the wash tray, and place that tray under running water.

      11

      Evaluate the test strip. The darkest strip will have received 40 seconds exposure, the lightest 10 seconds. A dry print will be slightly darker than the wet test strip. Choose the strip that you prefer and set the time for that time. Place an entire sheet of photographic paper into the easel and expose it for the time chosen. Repeat the previous two steps to develop the full print exactly the same way you processed the test strip. Extend the wash step to the minimum recommended for the paper fixer.

      12
      Black-and-white prints can have fine-art appeal.
      Black-and-white prints can have fine-art appeal.

      Dry the print. Modern resin-coated papers dry quickly and lie flat. Using a plastic clothes pin (wood absorbs chemicals) to allow air to dry both sides is an excellent method. Heat is not required. When your photograph is dry, it is ready to display or frame.


    Steps for Developing a Photograph

    Developing photographs at home is labor-intensive and requires specialized equipment and chemicals, yet handmade photographs convey craft and satisfaction that is hard to duplicate in the digital world. Although color developing requires more precise control over time and temperature, black-and-white processes are flexible and forgiving.

    Instructions

    Developing Film

      1

      Load the film developer spool in complete darkness. Place the spool into the film developer tank and attach the lid. A lightproof cap on the lid allows pouring chemicals in and out. All steps remaining in film development can be performed with lights on.

      2

      Mix film developer, stop bath and film fixer according to the manufacturers' instructions, in the amounts required by the tank. These chemicals are packaged with charts for common film and various time/temperature combinations. Follow instructions carefully and use current room temperature to mix the chemicals and to determine how long to develop your film. Set your timer.

      3

      Pour the film developer into the tank and start the timer. With the tank on a slight angle, tap it sharply several times to dislodge any air bubbles on the film. For five seconds out of every 30 seconds, swirl the tank gently to keep fresh developer in contact with the film.

      4

      Pour the developer out of the tank with 10 seconds left in developing. Immediately add stop bath, tapping the tank again when full. Swirl the tank throughout the brief stop bath cycle. This solution halts the action of the developer on the film.

      5

      Reset the timer, and add film fixer to the tank. Fixing time is not as critical as developer time. Tap the tank and swirl for five seconds out of every 30 seconds.

      At the completion of the fixing cycle, empty the tank and remove the lid. The film is light-safe now. Set the tank under running water of about room temperature. Instructions with the fixer will advise how long to wash the film. Consider these times as minimums for longest film life. Then hang the film to dry.

    Developing Prints

      6

      Mix enough paper developer, stop bath and paper fixer, according to manufacturers' instructions, for the developing trays. Choose the time based on current room temperature. Fill the trays with the chemicals, left to right: developer trap, stop bath tray, fixer tray, and tray of clean water. Turn out room lights and turn on the safelight. Black-and-white photographic paper is not sensitive to red light.

      7
      The enlarger projects light through a negative and focuses it for printing.
      The enlarger projects light through a negative and focuses it for printing.

      Load a negative into the enlarger. Turn on the enlarger, and focus and compose the image on the printing easel with the enlarger lens wide open. Set the lens to a medium setting such as f5.6 or f8 to print. Use one quarter sheet of 8-inch-by-10-inch paper for a test. The emulsion side of the paper, which feels sticky to a wet finger, is where the image forms.

      8

      Place the test strip on the easel, emulsion side up, in an area of the image that has average exposure. Set the timer for 10 seconds and cover 3/4 of the test strip with a heavy card. Expose the test strip for 10 seconds. Move the card carefully (do not move the test strip) to reveal an additional 1/4 of the strip. Expose for another 10 seconds. Move the card again, so that 3/4 of the strip is revealed for a third 10-second exposure. Remove the card completely and expose for 10 seconds.

      9

      Develop the test strip, Reset the timer for the recommended time, start the timer, and place the test strip emulsion side down in the developer tray. Lift a corner of the tray slightly and lower it to cover the test strip with developer. Continue to gently agitate the tray to supply fresh developer. After about 10 seconds, turn the test strip over and immerse it again in developer. The image will appear on the strip. At the end of developing time, transfer the strip to the stop bath.

      10

      Agitate the stop bath tray to complete developing action. Transfer the test strip to the fixer tray and again agitate the tray. Transfer the strip to the wash tray, and place that tray under running water.

      11

      Evaluate the test strip. The darkest strip will have received 40 seconds exposure, the lightest 10 seconds. A dry print will be slightly darker than the wet test strip. Choose the strip that you prefer and set the time for that time. Place an entire sheet of photographic paper into the easel and expose it for the time chosen. Repeat the previous two steps to develop the full print exactly the same way you processed the test strip. Extend the wash step to the minimum recommended for the paper fixer.

      12
      Black-and-white prints can have fine-art appeal.
      Black-and-white prints can have fine-art appeal.

      Dry the print. Modern resin-coated papers dry quickly and lie flat. Using a plastic clothes pin (wood absorbs chemicals) to allow air to dry both sides is an excellent method. Heat is not required. When your photograph is dry, it is ready to display or frame.



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