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Thursday, February 28, 2019
How to Correct an Underexposed Shot in Color
We have all had a treasured digital photo turn out to be a bad-looking shot. A common ailment of digital color photos is underexposure. This occurs when there is not enough light source to properly light the photograph's subject. A typical underexposed photo will look very dark and lack details. Fortunately, digital images that suffer underexposure can be corrected with the aid of Adobe Photoshop.
Instructions
- 1
Open the photo in Photoshop. Click on the "Layer" menu at the top and select "Duplicate Layer."
2Click on the drop-down box in the right-hand window of the "Layers" palette. The box will say "Normal" by default. Select "Screen" from the drop-down menu.
3Adjust the opacity of the new layer. Click the arrow beside the word "Opacity" in the "Layers" palette. Click the arrow and adjust the slider left or right. Note the lightening and darkening of your photo as you move the slider. Adjust until the desired effect is created.
4Repeat the process if necessary. Make several duplicate layers for extremely underexposed images until your photo is light enough.
5Combine the new layers into one image. Click the "Layers" menu at the top of the screen and select "Flatten Image" near the bottom of the drop-down menu.
6Click the "File" menu and select "Save" or "Save As." Name the file and choose the folder or location where you want to save it. Click the "Save" or "Save As" button when finished.
We have all had a treasured digital photo turn out to be a bad-looking shot. A common ailment of digital color photos is underexposure. This occurs when there is not enough light source to properly light the photograph's subject. A typical underexposed photo will look very dark and lack details. Fortunately, digital images that suffer underexposure can be corrected with the aid of Adobe Photoshop.
Instructions
- 1
Open the photo in Photoshop. Click on the "Layer" menu at the top and select "Duplicate Layer."
2Click on the drop-down box in the right-hand window of the "Layers" palette. The box will say "Normal" by default. Select "Screen" from the drop-down menu.
3Adjust the opacity of the new layer. Click the arrow beside the word "Opacity" in the "Layers" palette. Click the arrow and adjust the slider left or right. Note the lightening and darkening of your photo as you move the slider. Adjust until the desired effect is created.
4Repeat the process if necessary. Make several duplicate layers for extremely underexposed images until your photo is light enough.
5Combine the new layers into one image. Click the "Layers" menu at the top of the screen and select "Flatten Image" near the bottom of the drop-down menu.
6Click the "File" menu and select "Save" or "Save As." Name the file and choose the folder or location where you want to save it. Click the "Save" or "Save As" button when finished.
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Monday, February 25, 2019
Famous Maker Digital Photo Converter
The Famous Maker Digital Photo Converter is a photo conversion device that converts paper photographs into digital files using an internal scanner. The device and accompanying software retail for $80 as of 2011.
History
The Famous Maker Digital Photo Converter became available to the public in April of 2009. The digital photo converter is manufactured by Hammacher Schlemmer.
Function
Photographs measuring 3 1/2 by 5 to 5 by 7 inches are placed in a vertical sliding photo tray at the end of the conversion device. Upon placing a photo in the tray, you press a button at the front of the device to scan the photo.
Technical Features
The Famous Maker Digital Photo Converter contains a 5-megapixel complementary metal oxide semiconductor (CMOS) sensor. Images are scanned in at a resolution of up to 1,800 dots per inch (dpi).
Technical Issues
Photographs placed in the tray may slip out. Users may find digital image colors to be less vibrant than the original photo after scanning. The device is not compatible with Macintosh computers.
The Famous Maker Digital Photo Converter is a photo conversion device that converts paper photographs into digital files using an internal scanner. The device and accompanying software retail for $80 as of 2011.
History
The Famous Maker Digital Photo Converter became available to the public in April of 2009. The digital photo converter is manufactured by Hammacher Schlemmer.
Function
Photographs measuring 3 1/2 by 5 to 5 by 7 inches are placed in a vertical sliding photo tray at the end of the conversion device. Upon placing a photo in the tray, you press a button at the front of the device to scan the photo.
Technical Features
The Famous Maker Digital Photo Converter contains a 5-megapixel complementary metal oxide semiconductor (CMOS) sensor. Images are scanned in at a resolution of up to 1,800 dots per inch (dpi).
Technical Issues
Photographs placed in the tray may slip out. Users may find digital image colors to be less vibrant than the original photo after scanning. The device is not compatible with Macintosh computers.
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Sunday, February 24, 2019
What is Needed to Build My Own Darkroom?
Building a darkroom can be fun and a good family activity while at the same time give a real sense of creation because you will be making photographs the old fashion way. The darkroom may be old fashioned, but there's nothing like watching your own images slowly emerge in the developer bath. The basic darkroom is a darkened room with a sink, trays, enlarger and safe light. You can build one in a closet, in a basement or a spare room.
Types
To get started, pick a spot in the basement preferably where there is or can be a sink. An essential element of a darkroom is running water with temperature control.
Next you will need to build a light-tight room. If it has windows, you will need to cover them in the daylight so you can see where potential light holes appear. Film must be developed in total darkness and only specific "safe" light can be used during print making.
If you are building walls, the same is true. They must be light-tight to prevent clouding of photo paper and film.
Function
You will need a table of some sort, at least 6 feet long and at a comfortable height. Most likely you will be standing during the print processing, so the table can't be too low or too high.
It must be long enough to hold the enlarger and four 11 by 14-inch trays. If you are right-handed, put the enlarger at the left with the trays for developer, stop-bath, fixer and hypo stretching out to the right. The sink should be at the far right. If you are left-handed, reverse this. The idea is to build a darkroom that makes it the easiest to develop prints in the right sequence.
Features
Shelves will be useful for storing paper and chemicals. These can be above the table or to the side. They need to be sturdy because you will keep chemicals---some as liquids---there.
Considerations
Lighting should be subdued, no more than a couple of 60-watt bulbs. You can make a switch to turn off the white light and turn on the "safe" light, or just have two switches. For the safelight itself, you can buy one pre-made from Kodak and other companies, or build your own. If you build your own, you will need the specific light filters necessary for photographic work. The traditional "as-seen-in-movies" red light isn't just a red light. Red or amber, a safe light must filter out the light that will expose photo paper prematurely.
Even if you build the light, you still can buy the correct filter.
Identification
Other items you will need include a darkroom timer and a light table or light box.
The timer can be a simple---but accurate---regular device available in hardware or department stores. If you want better accuracy, GraLab produces timers that switch on the enlarger, then switch it off and automatically turn on the safe light.
A light box can be purchased or built. It essentially is a box with fluorescent lights and a smooth, translucent glass or plastic surface. This is used with a small magnifier to look at negatives and slides before printing.
You also will need a film and print dryer. These are designed to blow hot air across the film or prints to dry them with minimal spotting.
Building a darkroom can be fun and a good family activity while at the same time give a real sense of creation because you will be making photographs the old fashion way. The darkroom may be old fashioned, but there's nothing like watching your own images slowly emerge in the developer bath. The basic darkroom is a darkened room with a sink, trays, enlarger and safe light. You can build one in a closet, in a basement or a spare room.
Types
To get started, pick a spot in the basement preferably where there is or can be a sink. An essential element of a darkroom is running water with temperature control.
Next you will need to build a light-tight room. If it has windows, you will need to cover them in the daylight so you can see where potential light holes appear. Film must be developed in total darkness and only specific "safe" light can be used during print making.
If you are building walls, the same is true. They must be light-tight to prevent clouding of photo paper and film.
Function
You will need a table of some sort, at least 6 feet long and at a comfortable height. Most likely you will be standing during the print processing, so the table can't be too low or too high.
It must be long enough to hold the enlarger and four 11 by 14-inch trays. If you are right-handed, put the enlarger at the left with the trays for developer, stop-bath, fixer and hypo stretching out to the right. The sink should be at the far right. If you are left-handed, reverse this. The idea is to build a darkroom that makes it the easiest to develop prints in the right sequence.
Features
Shelves will be useful for storing paper and chemicals. These can be above the table or to the side. They need to be sturdy because you will keep chemicals---some as liquids---there.
Considerations
Lighting should be subdued, no more than a couple of 60-watt bulbs. You can make a switch to turn off the white light and turn on the "safe" light, or just have two switches. For the safelight itself, you can buy one pre-made from Kodak and other companies, or build your own. If you build your own, you will need the specific light filters necessary for photographic work. The traditional "as-seen-in-movies" red light isn't just a red light. Red or amber, a safe light must filter out the light that will expose photo paper prematurely.
Even if you build the light, you still can buy the correct filter.
Identification
Other items you will need include a darkroom timer and a light table or light box.
The timer can be a simple---but accurate---regular device available in hardware or department stores. If you want better accuracy, GraLab produces timers that switch on the enlarger, then switch it off and automatically turn on the safe light.
A light box can be purchased or built.
Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques
. It essentially is a box with fluorescent lights and a smooth, translucent glass or plastic surface. This is used with a small magnifier to look at negatives and slides before printing.You also will need a film and print dryer. These are designed to blow hot air across the film or prints to dry them with minimal spotting.
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