Digital Photography Aperture Tutorial

Apertures function the same in digital photography as in film photography. The aperture is the opening through which light can pass completely through your lens to the focal plane of your camera which holds your Charge Coupled Device (CCD) that captures a digital image. Aperture helps control exposure, depth of field, and the sharpness of your photos. Plus aperture can help you photograph in low light.

How is Aperture Notated?

Aperture numbers are notated as the denominator of a fraction, therefore the lower the number of aperture, the larger the hole. For instance f2.8 is twice as wide as f4.0. Each of these increments is referred to as a stop. Whole aperture stops from f1 to f22 are as follows: f1, f1.2, f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22.

Setting Aperture

On single lens reflex (SLR) cameras, or generally any camera without a fixed lens, there is a ring on the lens that allows you to select the aperture size. Typically, there are indicators for the different stops your lens supports.
For permanently mounted lenses, you may be able to set your aperture in one of the menus of your camera, or it may simply be automatically controlled with no option for manual control.

Exposure

The lower the aperture number, the wider the opening and the more light it lets in. Each whole aperture stop lets in twice as much light as the one before. For instance, f4 lets in twice as much light as f5.6.

Depth of Field

Depth of field is how much of the area in front and behind the subject that is in focus. Wider (smaller number) apertures produce a narrow depth of field, or total area that is in focus. Narrower apertures (higher numbers) give you a greater depth of field, allowing more area in front and behind your subject to be in focus. A good rule of thumb is that the aperture number tells you how many people you could get in focus at a time. For instance, at f2.8 you can get about three people in focus and at f8 you can get eight people in focus.

Overall Sharpness

Smaller apertures (higher numbers) use more of the center of the lens and less of the edge. The glass in the center of the lens generally produces the sharpest images. The smaller the aperture you use, the less of the edge you use. This will increase the overall sharpness of your images. A general rule of thumb is to shoot primarily not wider than within one or two stops of the widest aperture. For instance if you have an f2.8 lens, set the aperture to f4 or f5.6 to get sharper images.

Photographing in Low Light

In low light, a wider aperture lets you capture images at a faster shutter speed. Smaller apertures can give you more sharpness, so it is critical to find the right aperture/shutter speed combination for your particular photo. The great advantage of digital cameras over film is that you can experiment without wasting film and you can check your results instantly. Try different aperture and shutter speed combinations and see which works best.

---

Apertures function the same in digital photography as in film photography. The aperture is the opening through which light can pass completely through your lens to the focal plane of your camera which holds your Charge Coupled Device (CCD) that captures a digital image. Aperture helps control exposure, depth of field, and the sharpness of your photos. Plus aperture can help you photograph in low light.

How is Aperture Notated?

Aperture numbers are notated as the denominator of a fraction, therefore the lower the number of aperture, the larger the hole. For instance f2.8 is twice as wide as f4.0. Each of these increments is referred to as a stop. Whole aperture stops from f1 to f22 are as follows: f1, f1.2, f2, f2.8, f4, f5.6, f8, f11, f16, f22.

Setting Aperture

On single lens reflex (SLR) cameras, or generally any camera without a fixed lens, there is a ring on the lens that allows you to select the aperture size. Typically, there are indicators for the different stops your lens supports.
For permanently mounted lenses, you may be able to set your aperture in one of the menus of your camera, or it may simply be automatically controlled with no option for manual control.

Exposure

The lower the aperture number, the wider the opening and the more light it lets in. Each whole aperture stop lets in twice as much light as the one before. For instance, f4 lets in twice as much light as f5.6.

Depth of Field

Depth of field is how much of the area in front and behind the subject that is in focus. Wider (smaller number) apertures produce a narrow depth of field, or total area that is in focus. Narrower apertures (higher numbers) give you a greater depth of field, allowing more area in front and behind your subject to be in focus. A good rule of thumb is that the aperture number tells you how many people you could get in focus at a time. For instance, at f2.8 you can get about three people in focus and at f8 you can get eight people in focus.

Overall Sharpness

Smaller apertures (higher numbers) use more of the center of the lens and less of the edge. The glass in the center of the lens generally produces the sharpest images. The smaller the aperture you use, the less of the edge you use. This will increase the overall sharpness of your images.

Enhance your photography skill,The Top Secret Photography Techniques

. A general rule of thumb is to shoot primarily not wider than within one or two stops of the widest aperture. For instance if you have an f2.8 lens, set the aperture to f4 or f5.6 to get sharper images.

Photographing in Low Light

In low light, a wider aperture lets you capture images at a faster shutter speed. Smaller apertures can give you more sharpness, so it is critical to find the right aperture/shutter speed combination for your particular photo. The great advantage of digital cameras over film is that you can experiment without wasting film and you can check your results instantly. Try different aperture and shutter speed combinations and see which works best.

---

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How to Add Wings to My Photograph

If you have access to a photo editor, adding wings to a photograph is a fairly simple task. Photoshop is currently one of the most popular photo editing applications used to perform image alterations; however, this application may be a little pricey for some. Fortunately there is a wide selection of online photo editors you can use to perform this particular task. Before you get started, find an image of the wings you want to use to add to your existing photograph. Then upload or save the image to your computer.

Instructions

LunaPic

1

Go to the LunaPic online photo editor (see Resources).

2

Upload the wing image to the photo editor. Use the eraser tool offered in the photo editor to erase the background that surrounds the image of the wings.

3

Select the crop tool in the left-side tools menu. Open the "Tool" drop-down menu and select the "Freeform" or "Magic Wand" to precisely mark the region of the photograph where the wings are located. Select "Copy/Paste." Click "Old Blend Tool." Click "Change image 1 (main)."

4

Upload to the photo editor the photograph you want to add wings to. Click "Paste Clipboard image into working image."

5

Click the "View Clipboard" tool in the left-side tools menu. Insert the wings by clicking "Paste Clipboard image into working image."

6

Drag the wings to the location you want. Resize them to the size you want. Lower the transparency level of the wing image. Perform any other editing options you want.

7

Click "Apply Pasted Image" to blend the wings into your photograph.

FotoFlexer

8

Open the FotoFlexer online photo editor (see Resources).

9

Upload the wing image to the photo editor.

10

Go to the "Basic" tab. Select "Crop." Use the crop tool to precisely mark the region of the photograph where the wings are located. Click "Crop Selected Area."

11

Click on the "Decorate" tab. Use the eraser tool offered in the photo editor to erase the background surrounding the image of the wings.

12

Go to the "Layers" tab. Click "Add Images." Upload to the photo editor the photograph you want to add wings to. Click and drag both the wing image and main photograph image to the location you want. Use the "Push Back" or "Pull Forward" button to overlay the wing image on top of the main photograph. Resize the wing to the size you want. Lower the opacity level of the wing image. Perform any other editing options you want. Click "Select All." Click "Merge" to blend the wings into your photograph.

Splashup

13

Go to the Splashup online photo editor (see Resources).

14

Open the "File" menu. Select "Open Image." Open the original image you want to add wings to.

15

Go back to the "File" menu. Select "Open Image." Open the wing image.

16

Use the lasso tool to select the wings. Go to the "Edit" menu. Select "Copy."

17

Click the original image. Go to the "Edit" menu. Select "Paste." Use the "Select" tool to move wings to where you want them located. Go to the "File" menu. Save the image.

---

If you have access to a photo editor, adding wings to a photograph is a fairly simple task. Photoshop is currently one of the most popular photo editing applications used to perform image alterations; however, this application may be a little pricey for some. Fortunately there is a wide selection of online photo editors you can use to perform this particular task. Before you get started, find an image of the wings you want to use to add to your existing photograph. Then upload or save the image to your computer.

Instructions

LunaPic

1

Go to the LunaPic online photo editor (see Resources).

2

Upload the wing image to the photo editor. Use the eraser tool offered in the photo editor to erase the background that surrounds the image of the wings.

3

Select the crop tool in the left-side tools menu. Open the "Tool" drop-down menu and select the "Freeform" or "Magic Wand" to precisely mark the region of the photograph where the wings are located. Select "Copy/Paste." Click "Old Blend Tool." Click "Change image 1 (main)."

4

Upload to the photo editor the photograph you want to add wings to. Click "Paste Clipboard image into working image."

5

Click the "View Clipboard" tool in the left-side tools menu. Insert the wings by clicking "Paste Clipboard image into working image."

6

Drag the wings to the location you want. Resize them to the size you want. Lower the transparency level of the wing image. Perform any other editing options you want.

7

Click "Apply Pasted Image" to blend the wings into your photograph.

FotoFlexer

8

Open the FotoFlexer online photo editor (see Resources).

9

Upload the wing image to the photo editor.

10

Go to the "Basic" tab. Select "Crop." Use the crop tool to precisely mark the region of the photograph where the wings are located. Click "Crop Selected Area."

11

Click on the "Decorate" tab. Use the eraser tool offered in the photo editor to erase the background surrounding the image of the wings.

12

Go to the "Layers" tab. Click "Add Images." Upload to the photo editor the photograph you want to add wings to. Click and drag both the wing image and main photograph image to the location you want. Use the "Push Back" or "Pull Forward" button to overlay the wing image on top of the main photograph. Resize the wing to the size you want. Lower the opacity level of the wing image. Perform any other editing options you want. Click "Select All." Click "Merge" to blend the wings into your photograph.

Splashup

13

Go to the Splashup online photo editor (see Resources).

14

Open the "File" menu. Select "Open Image." Open the original image you want to add wings to.

15

Go back to the "File" menu. Select "Open Image." Open the wing image.

16

Use the lasso tool to select the wings. Go to the "Edit" menu. Select "Copy."

17

Click the original image. Go to the "Edit" menu. Select "Paste." Use the "Select" tool to move wings to where you want them located. Go to the "File" menu. Save the image.

---

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How to Process 35 mm Film

Photography has been a mainstay in life since its introduction in the mid-19th century. While many people now use digital cameras, some still prefer to take their photos with 35mm film. Developing your film at home is fairly easy and doesn't require a lot of expensive equipment. It can reduce the amount of time that you wait for your negatives to be developed and save you money in the long term. Processing your own film may seem difficult at first, but it becomes easier with repetition.

Instructions

Loading The Film

1

Rinse the developing tank, reels and all other parts thoroughly with hot water to remove any trace of chemicals. Old chemical residue can damage the prints on your film. Completely dry the tank and the parts.

2

Take the roll of film, tank, lid, center column and reel into the transfer room. This is a room that needs to be completely dark while the film is being transferred from the roll to the developing reel and placed into the tank. Choose an interior room with no windows and block the bottom of the door with a towel. If light is seeping in through the edges of the door, cover those areas with electrical tape. Any exposure to light at this stage will damage the film.

3

Put the center canister into the tank, then turn out the lights. Check the room (especially around the door) one more time for light leaks.

4

Open the film roll with a bottle opener. Take the film out of the roll.

5

Unwind the end of the film, handling it by the edges at all times. Cut the lead off the end so the end is straight.

6

Slide the end of the film into the tabs on the reel. Slide the first few centimeters of the film into the reel, then twist the reel back and forth to load the film until you reach the end of the reel. Cut the spindle off the film, then finish loading the film onto the reel.

7

Load the reel into the tank by sliding it over the center column. Put the lid on the tank, making sure that the lid is on tight and straight. It's now safe to turn the lights back on.

Developing The Film

8

Place the tank in the sink and presoak the film by pouring water into the tank until it's overflowing. Let the film soak for five minutes.

9

Pour the water out of the tank. The water may be slightly discolored, which is normal.

10

Prepare the developer. Read the instructions on the packaging for information about how it needs to be diluted. For instance, if the label says 1+9, you'll use one part developer to nine parts water; if it's 1+7, it will be one part developer to seven parts water, and so on.

11

Pour the developer into the tank, adding enough to completely submerge the film. Start the timer and place the cap on the tank. Read the instructions on the packaging for the amount of time to keep the developer in the tank (usually between 7 and 12 minutes).

12

Agitate the tank by flipping it over for 10 seconds every minute.

13

Take the cap off the tank and pour the developer out when the time has expired.

14

Pour the stop bath into the tank and shake it. This chemical stops the developer from continuing to act on the film. Pour the stop bath out of the tank after one minute.

15

Dilute the fixer. This chemical affixes the images to the film and stops it from being light sensitive. The ratio is usually one part fixer to four parts water, but read the instructions to make sure.

16

Pour the fixer into the tank, completely submerging the film. Agitate the fixer for 10 seconds every minute. Follow the instructions regarding the amount of time the film needs to be in the fixer, but it's usually between 5 and 10 minutes.

17

Pour the fixer out of the tank. Fill the canister with water and agitate it, then dump out the water. Repeat this step twice. The film can now safely be exposed to light.

18

Open the tank and remove the reel. Hold the reel up to the light. If the film has a slight purple tint, it's done. If the film is dark purple, place it back in the fixer for another two or three minutes, then rinse it again.

19

Fill the tank halfway with water and place the reel into it. Put the lid back on the tank, shake it for 30 seconds and pour the water out. Repeat this for 10 minutes.

20

Pour a few ounces of wetting agent into the tank and slowly fill it with water until the reel is submerged. If the wetting agent foams, tap the side of the canister to prevent any bubbles from sticking to your film. Let it sit for 30 seconds, then pour the wetting agent out of the canister and remove the reel. Do not wash the film.

21

Twist the reel and pull it apart. Grab the end of the film and lift it off the reel. Touch only the edges of the film, and don't let it come into contact with the floor or any other objects.

22

Hang the film to dry in a dust-free location. Hang one end of the film on a clothes hanger with a clothespin, and attach a clothespin to the other end of the film to keep it straight as it dries. Do not put the clothespins on the images. Leave the film dry for six to eight hours.

23

Take the film down after it has dried, and cut it into manageable strips. Cut the film on the lines between the exposures.

---

Photography has been a mainstay in life since its introduction in the mid-19th century. While many people now use digital cameras, some still prefer to take their photos with 35mm film. Developing your film at home is fairly easy and doesn't require a lot of expensive equipment. It can reduce the amount of time that you wait for your negatives to be developed and save you money in the long term. Processing your own film may seem difficult at first, but it becomes easier with repetition.

Instructions

Loading The Film

1

Rinse the developing tank, reels and all other parts thoroughly with hot water to remove any trace of chemicals. Old chemical residue can damage the prints on your film. Completely dry the tank and the parts.

2

Take the roll of film, tank, lid, center column and reel into the transfer room. This is a room that needs to be completely dark while the film is being transferred from the roll to the developing reel and placed into the tank. Choose an interior room with no windows and block the bottom of the door with a towel. If light is seeping in through the edges of the door, cover those areas with electrical tape. Any exposure to light at this stage will damage the film.

3

Put the center canister into the tank, then turn out the lights. Check the room (especially around the door) one more time for light leaks.

4

Open the film roll with a bottle opener. Take the film out of the roll.

5

Unwind the end of the film, handling it by the edges at all times. Cut the lead off the end so the end is straight.

6

Slide the end of the film into the tabs on the reel. Slide the first few centimeters of the film into the reel, then twist the reel back and forth to load the film until you reach the end of the reel. Cut the spindle off the film, then finish loading the film onto the reel.

7

Load the reel into the tank by sliding it over the center column. Put the lid on the tank, making sure that the lid is on tight and straight. It's now safe to turn the lights back on.

Developing The Film

8

Place the tank in the sink and presoak the film by pouring water into the tank until it's overflowing. Let the film soak for five minutes.

9

Pour the water out of the tank. The water may be slightly discolored, which is normal.

10

Prepare the developer. Read the instructions on the packaging for information about how it needs to be diluted. For instance, if the label says 1+9, you'll use one part developer to nine parts water; if it's 1+7, it will be one part developer to seven parts water, and so on.

11

Pour the developer into the tank, adding enough to completely submerge the film. Start the timer and place the cap on the tank. Read the instructions on the packaging for the amount of time to keep the developer in the tank (usually between 7 and 12 minutes).

12

Agitate the tank by flipping it over for 10 seconds every minute.

13

Take the cap off the tank and pour the developer out when the time has expired.

14

Pour the stop bath into the tank and shake it. This chemical stops the developer from continuing to act on the film. Pour the stop bath out of the tank after one minute.

15

Dilute the fixer. This chemical affixes the images to the film and stops it from being light sensitive. The ratio is usually one part fixer to four parts water, but read the instructions to make sure.

16

Pour the fixer into the tank, completely submerging the film. Agitate the fixer for 10 seconds every minute. Follow the instructions regarding the amount of time the film needs to be in the fixer, but it's usually between 5 and 10 minutes.

17

Pour the fixer out of the tank. Fill the canister with water and agitate it, then dump out the water. Repeat this step twice. The film can now safely be exposed to light.

18

Open the tank and remove the reel. Hold the reel up to the light. If the film has a slight purple tint, it's done. If the film is dark purple, place it back in the fixer for another two or three minutes, then rinse it again.

19

Fill the tank halfway with water and place the reel into it. Put the lid back on the tank, shake it for 30 seconds and pour the water out. Repeat this for 10 minutes.

20

Pour a few ounces of wetting agent into the tank and slowly fill it with water until the reel is submerged. If the wetting agent foams, tap the side of the canister to prevent any bubbles from sticking to your film. Let it sit for 30 seconds, then pour the wetting agent out of the canister and remove the reel. Do not wash the film.

21

Twist the reel and pull it apart. Grab the end of the film and lift it off the reel. Touch only the edges of the film, and don't let it come into contact with the floor or any other objects.

22

Hang the film to dry in a dust-free location. Hang one end of the film on a clothes hanger with a clothespin, and attach a clothespin to the other end of the film to keep it straight as it dries. Do not put the clothespins on the images. Leave the film dry for six to eight hours.

23

Take the film down after it has dried, and cut it into manageable strips. Cut the film on the lines between the exposures.

---

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How to Get Depth Perception in Photos

Whether you are an amateur or a professional photographer, taking photographs of objects with greater depth perception can create a surreal image not even the human eye can reproduce. Creating an "out of focus" shot with a shallow depth of field is one of the most powerful effects you can have, because you can eliminate distracting backgrounds and make the object your primary subject in the shot.

Instructions

1

Shorten your focal length by zooming into your subject, which will give the illusion of a more shallow depth perception. Telephoto lenses allow you to shorten the focal length even more, which will result in a greater depth perception and cause the background to become more blurry.

2

Dial down the f-stop value on your camera to f/2.8 or lower, to create a smaller aperture. The smaller aperture will create an illusion of a shallow depth of field. If you are in a dimly lit area, a smaller aperture will cause your image to be darker. Therefore, to compensate for the lower f-stop, you will need to add more light to the frame, or raise the ISO level in your camera.

3

Move the subject away from the background. In order to create a greater depth perception, there has to be physical depth between the subject and the background image. If the subject is right against the background, it is impossible to create depth in the image, without the use of digital special effects. If you cannot control the position of the object, try adjusting the f-stop, or modifying the focal length.

---

Whether you are an amateur or a professional photographer, taking photographs of objects with greater depth perception can create a surreal image not even the human eye can reproduce. Creating an "out of focus" shot with a shallow depth of field is one of the most powerful effects you can have, because you can eliminate distracting backgrounds and make the object your primary subject in the shot.

Instructions

1

Shorten your focal length by zooming into your subject, which will give the illusion of a more shallow depth perception. Telephoto lenses allow you to shorten the focal length even more, which will result in a greater depth perception and cause the background to become more blurry.

2

Dial down the f-stop value on your camera to f/2.8 or lower, to create a smaller aperture. The smaller aperture will create an illusion of a shallow depth of field. If you are in a dimly lit area, a smaller aperture will cause your image to be darker. Therefore, to compensate for the lower f-stop, you will need to add more light to the frame, or raise the ISO level in your camera.

3

Move the subject away from the background. In order to create a greater depth perception, there has to be physical depth between the subject and the background image. If the subject is right against the background, it is impossible to create depth in the image, without the use of digital special effects. If you cannot control the position of the object, try adjusting the f-stop, or modifying the focal length.

---

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