Silhouette photographs are dramatic and mysterious. In the studio, you can make silhouette portraits that convey this sense of drama and mystery by paying careful attention to the lighting. Normally with portraits you light the person, but with a silhouette, you take all or most of the light off the figure and put it on the background instead.
Instructions
- 1
Set up a light source that will be behind the model. If you have a large softbox, this can work beautifully. If you don't have a softbox, darken the room as much as possible except for one window. Drape a sheet or a curtain over this window or glass door in order to create a soft, diffused light behind the model.
2Set up the camera on the tripod. Ask the model to try several different poses at different distances from the light source. The closer the model is to the light source, the more details will show up around the edges of the figure, which can be a desired result. The further the model gets from the light, the darker he will appear.
3Meter the model and the background. If you are using the zone system, the background should fall in zone 7 or 8, and the model in zone 3 or 2. Therefore your meter would be set for an exposure in between those two zones, in zone 5. For example, if you have an EV of 11 on your light meter for the background, and the model reads about 6 or 7, that's a good range of values. Set the meter on 9, halfway between these two EV values, and read your exposure information off the light meter. For a film speed of 400 and a shutter speed of 1/125 of a second, your aperture would be f/4. A shallow depth of field can be a good thing in a silhouette.
4Look at the histogram on your digital camera. You will be exposing for the background, which should look almost blown out to pure white on the histogram. This way the model will appear very dark, while the background will be very bright. You can adjust the image with editing software later to be somewhat darker if desired.
5Make the exposures, bracketing some of them by shooting one frame at an aperture just above and one frame below the "correct" exposure. This way you may find some images that are even better than the ones that you planned.
Silhouette photographs are dramatic and mysterious. In the studio, you can make silhouette portraits that convey this sense of drama and mystery by paying careful attention to the lighting. Normally with portraits you light the person, but with a silhouette, you take all or most of the light off the figure and put it on the background instead.
Instructions
- 1
Set up a light source that will be behind the model. If you have a large softbox, this can work beautifully. If you don't have a softbox, darken the room as much as possible except for one window. Drape a sheet or a curtain over this window or glass door in order to create a soft, diffused light behind the model.
2Set up the camera on the tripod. Ask the model to try several different poses at different distances from the light source. The closer the model is to the light source, the more details will show up around the edges of the figure, which can be a desired result. The further the model gets from the light, the darker he will appear.
3Meter the model and the background. If you are using the zone system, the background should fall in zone 7 or 8, and the model in zone 3 or 2. Therefore your meter would be set for an exposure in between those two zones, in zone 5. For example, if you have an EV of 11 on your light meter for the background, and the model reads about 6 or 7, that's a good range of values. Set the meter on 9, halfway between these two EV values, and read your exposure information off the light meter. For a film speed of 400 and a shutter speed of 1/125 of a second, your aperture would be f/4. A shallow depth of field can be a good thing in a silhouette.
4Look at the histogram on your digital camera. You will be exposing for the background, which should look almost blown out to pure white on the histogram. This way the model will appear very dark, while the background will be very bright. You can adjust the image with editing software later to be somewhat darker if desired.
5Make the exposures, bracketing some of them by shooting one frame at an aperture just above and one frame below the "correct" exposure. This way you may find some images that are even better than the ones that you planned.
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